UC-NRLF 


B    3    135    flbS 


LIBRARY 

OF   THE 

UNIVERSITY  OF  CALIFORNIA. 


OK 


MRS.  MARTHA  E.  HALLIDIE. 
Class 


SMALL   ENGINES  AND 
BOILERS 


VERTICAL  ENGINE  OF  FIVE  HORSE-POWER. 


SMALL  ENGINES  AND  BOILERS 

A  MANUAL 


OF 


CONCISE  AND  SPECIFIC  DIRECTIONS  FOR  THE  CON- 
STRUCTION  OF   SMALL   STEAM   ENGINES 
AND  BOILERS  OF  MODERN  TYPES, 

FROM  FIVE  HORSE  POWER  DOWN   TO  MODEL  SIZES, 

FOR 

AMATEURS  AND  OTHERS  INTERESTED  IN  SUCH  WORK. 


BY 

F5.     WATSON. 

Late  Editor  and  Proprietor  of  The  Engineer. 

AUTHOR  OF  "MODERN  PRACTICE,"  "MANUAL  OF  THE  HAND  LATHE," 

"  How  TO  RUN  ENGINES  AND  BOILERS,"  "  THE  PROFESSOR 

IN  THE  MACHINE  SHOP,"  ETC.,  ETC. 

Illustrated  by  jo  Full  Page    Working  Dimensioned  Drawings^ 


NEW  YORK 

D.  VAN  NOSTRAND  COMPANY. 
1899 


HALLIDIE 


COPYRIGHT,  1899,  BY 
D.   VAN    NOSTRAND   COMPANY. 


C.   J.    PETERS   &   SON,    TYPOGRAPHERS, 
BOSTON. 


PREFACE. 


THE  intention  of  the  author  in  writing  this  work 
has  been  to  furnish  specific  directions  and  correct 
dimensioned  plans  for  small  engines  and  boilers, 
used  either  for  pleasure  or  power  purposes,  in  lieu 
of  sketches  and  gossip  about  such  machines.  It 
has  been  assumed  that  those  who  need  a  guide  of. 
this  kind  have  some  acquaintance  with  ordinary 
machine  work,  and  the  usual  facilities  for  it,  if  even 
but  a  small  lathe  and  a  vice-bench  ;  with  this  out- 
fit a  great  deal  may  be  done. 

The  boilers  shown  will  do  a  great  deal  of  work 
for  their  superficial  dimensions,  if  properly  man- 
aged. They  have  ample  grates  and  heating 
surfaces,  and  will  maintain  a  steady  evaporation 
continuously  with  good  fuel  and  management. 
The  work  also  contains  hints  upon  lathe-work, 
vice-work,  and  finishing  metals,  which  it  is  believed 


98890 


VI  PREFACE. 

will  be  of  service  to  those  who   have  had  but  a 
limited  experience. 

High  expansion  engines  have  not  been  treated, 
for  the  reason  that  they  are  beyond  the  mechani- 
cal and  engineering  experience  of  the  majority 
of  persons  who  will  purchase  a  work  of  this  char- 
acter. 


TABLE   OF   CONTENTS. 


CHAPTER   I.  PAGE 

Introductory;   Illustration  of  Vertical  Engine      ....  1-3 

CHAPTER   II. 

Drawings.     Example  of  Skeleton  Drawing.     Explanation 

of  Methods  used  to  design  engines 4-10 

CHAPTER   III. 

Plans  for  Vertical  Engine  of  3"  by  4"  Cylinder.  Illustra- 
tion of  Small  Vertical  Engine  of  f"  Cylinder  by  i" 
Stroke;  View  of  Horizontal  Engine 11-17 

CHAPTER    IV. 

Discursive  as  to  Ways  and  Means  of  doing  Work  ;  the 
Best  Tools  for  the  Purpose  and  Methods  employed 
by  Practical  Men  to  produce  Certain  Results  .  .  .  18-22 

CHAPTER   V. 

Engine  Details.  Figured  Plans  for  Various  Members  of 
Launch  Engine  3"  by  4".  Concise  Directions  for 
Completing  Each  Part  in  Full 23-32 

CHAPTER   VI. 

Further  Details.  Discussion  of  Ways  and  Means,  and  the 
Fitting-up  of  Cross-head,  Connecting-rod,  Crank- 
disk,  and  Eccentrics 33~4O 


viii  TABLE   OF   CONTENTS. 

CHAPTER    VII.  PAGE 

The  Link  Motion  and  How  to  Construct  it.  Remarks 
upon  its  Functions  and  Operation.  Reverse  Gear 
and  Piston  Construction 41-48 

CHAPTER   VIII. 

The  Bed-plate  Illustrated  and  Remarks  upon  the  Neces- 
sity of  Accurate  Execution  of  Certain  Portions  of 
the  Engine 49~5* 

CHAPTER   IX. 

Plans  for  Valve-stem,  Stuffing-box,  and  Connecting-rod. 
Careful  Fitting  of  Certain  Details  enjoined.  Return 
Crank  Valve  Motion 52~57 

CHAPTER   X. 

The  Horizontal  Engine  and  How  to  Build  it.  Full  Fig- 
ured Dimensions  of  the  Principal  Details  with  In- 
structions How  to  execute  Them.  Consideration  of 
the  Eccentric,  Bed-plate,  Pillow-block,  Connecting- 
rod,  and  Cross-head 58-83 

CHAPTER  XL 

Setting  Eccentrics.  Detailed  Explanation  of  the  Process. 
The  Link  Motion  continued  and  discussed  in  Fuller 
Detail.  Various  Kinds  of  Machine  Finish,  Solder- 
ing, and  Brazing 84-96 

CHAPTER   XII. 

Discussion  of  Boilers  and  Figured  Plans  for  Small  Pow- 
ers. Vertical  Boilers  of  One-horse  Power.  Rule 
for  Bursting-pressure  of  Boiler-shells  ;  Tubes  and 
Heating  Surfaces  ;  Water-tube  Boilers  ....  97-108 


SMALL  ENGINES   AND   BOILERS 


CHAPTER   I. 

THE  difference  between  amateur  work  of  all 
kinds  and  that  of  expert  workmen  is  to  be  found 
in  its  lack  of  finish,  disproportion  in  sizes,  and 
haste  in  assemblin-g  it.  These  are  common  faults  ; 
and  since  they  are  easily  remedied  there  is  no 
reason  why  they  should  not  be,  if  the  directions 
given  in  this  volume  are  carefully  followed. 

Lack  of  finish  is  sometimes  caused  by  want  of 
the  proper  agents,  files,  polishing  materials,  etc.  ; 
but  as  these  are  easily  obtainable  in  all  parts  of 
the  country  by  mail  from  the  larger  cities,  there 
is  no  excuse  for  being  in  want  of  them ;  the 
several  mediums  employed  will  be  enumerated  in 
the  proper  place.  Disproportion  in  sizes  is  easily 
avoided  by  considering  the  work  done  by  the  de- 
tail to  be  made  and  the  material  employed  in  its 
construction,  allowing  a  large  margin  for  safety 
against  accidental  strains. 

For  example  :  *the  cylinder  of  a  steam  engine 
is  always  of  cast-iron,  or,  in  model  engines,  it  is 
sometimes  of  brass  to  avoid  rusting  when  idle 


2  SMALL    ENGINES    AND    BOILERS. 

and  to  impart  elegance  of  appearance  ;  it  does 
not  require  to  be  of  great  thickness,  even. for  very 
high  pressures.  I  have  seen  steam  fire-engines 
worked  at  200  pounds  per  square  inch  having  6- 
inch  cylinders  only  i  of  i  inch  thick  ;  the  heads 
being  of  the  same  thickness.  No  accident  ever 
occurred  to  them.  The  same  cylinder  in  a  station- 
ary engine  would  be  i  inch,  or  I  of  i  inch,  thick  to 
allow  for  re-boring  ;  but  the  first-mentioned  cylin- 
der was  entirely  within  the  limits  of  safety.  In 
model  engines  it  is  quite  common  to  make  a  cyl- 
inder of  2  inches  diameter  i  of  an  inch  thick,  for 
the  assumed  reason  that  it  is  easier  to  make  a 
sound  casting  of  the  proper  temper  for  machining 
than  one  that  is  lighter.  These  considerations 
hold  good  in  practice,  but  there  is  nothing  to  pre- 
vent such  a  cylinder  being  bored  out  so  as  to  leave 
it  only  tV  of  an  inch  thick ;  the  result  being  that 
the  machine  as  a  whole  is  lighter  and  not  im- 

o 

paired  as  to  its  duty. 

Haste  in  assembling  or  putting  machines  to- 
gether is  inexcusable  for  an  amateur,  who  is  sup- 
posed to  have  plenty  of  time  at  his  command  ;  and 
it  arises  from  a  desire  to  see  how  the  machine 
will  look  when  it  is  put  together,  but,  as  a  conse- 
quence, it  looks  badly.  Parts  are  shoved  together 
anyhow,  in  line  or  out  of  line,  and  hastily  connected 
before  they  are  half  finished,  so  that  an  expert 
workman  can  tell  at  a  glance  that  a  'prentice  hand 
did  the  work. 

I  have  alluded  to  these  common  errors  in  ama- 


SMALL    ENGINES    AND    BOILERS.  3 

teur  work  for  the  reason  that  it  is  requisite  to 
know  what  not  to  do  as  well  as  what  must  be 
done  in  order  to  get  out  a  creditable  piece  of 
work  ;  and  surely  if  a  thing  is  worth  doing  at  all 
it  is  worth  doing  well. 

Of  all  things  amateurs  should  avoid  makeshift 
methods,  such  as  soft  soldering  parts  together 
that  should  be  bolted  and  screwed  fast,  or  using 
bent  wires  or  parts  not  turned  true  where  it  is 
necessary  to  use  connections.  Soldering  is  a 
tinker's  job,  and  belongs  to  pots  and  pans,  not 
to  machine-work  with  any  pretence  to  accuracy 
and  durability.  We  can  make  an  alleged  steam 
engine  out  of  sheet-brass  and  tin  soldered  to- 
gether with  wires  for  connections ;  but  the  time 
spent  upon  such  work  is  wasted,  for  the  job  com- 
plete is  not  worth  a  moment's  notice.  It  will  not 
stand  any  pressure  at  all  or  do  any  work,  whereas, 
if  the  amateur  follows  the  instructions  in  this  book, 
he  will  have  an  engine  and  a  boiler  that  will  do  a 
good  deal  of  work,  even  to  driving  quite  a  number 
of  tools,  or  a  boat  20  feet  long,  which  will  carry  a 
dozen  people.  Such  an  engine  would  seem  to  be 
outside  the  pale  of  amateur  work,  but  this  is  not 
the  case  ;  for  it  weighs  complete  but  90  pounds, 
and  no  detail  is  beyond  the  capacity  of  a  lathe 
that  will  swing  6  inches  over  the  ways  and  take 
24  inches  between  centres.  Complete  figured 
drawings  appear  farther  on  for  this  engine,  as 
also  the  way  to  make  a  drawing  for  any  engine 
or  machine. 


CHAPTER   II. 

DRAWINGS. 

AN  amateur  should  never  make  any  machine 
without  a  drawing  of  some  kind,  showing  all  the 
connections,  the  lengths  of  them,  and  where  they 
come  or  are  attached.  For  want  of  this  very 
necessary  preliminary  he  may  find  that  he  has  to 
either  rebuild  or  else  cut  away  parts  that  interfere, 
not  only  doing  the  work  twice  over,  but  making 
a  botched  job  after  all ;  for  any  work  that  is  not 
designed  properly  on  the  start  never  comes  right 
at  the  end —  if  it  ever  has  an  end. 

It  is  not  necessary  to  show  every  bolt  and  nut 
in  such  a  drawing  ;  but  it  is  necessary  to  show 
every  connection,  the  frame,  and  the  lengths  and 
widths  of  the  steam  gear,  such  as  the  valve  and 
valve  chest,  the  ports,  eccentrics,  and  rocker  arms, 
if  any  are  used,  pillow-blocks  and  shaft,  crank 
and  fly  wheel,  etc.  When  this  is  done  the  ama- 
teur can  go  ahead,  secure  in  the  knowledge  that 
he  will  have  a  good  job  if  the  work  is  properly 
executed,  and  that  he  will  not  have  to  do  any  of 
,  the  work  twice.  Such  drawings  are  called  skele- 
ton drawings,  and  are  used  in  some  of  the  largest 
shops  in  the  country.  Fig.  i  shows  such  a  draw- 


SMALL    ENGINES    AND    BOILERS. 


Fig,  i, 


SMALL   ENGINES   AND    BOILERS. 


Fig,  a, 


SMALL    ENGINES    AND    BOILERS.  J 

ing  in  its  incipiency.  The  first  thing  is  to  draw 
the  centre  and  base  lines.  Suppose  we  mean  to 
make  a  vertical  engine  of  any  size —  2-inch  cylin- 
der by  3-  or  4-inch  stroke  ;  then  we  draw  the 
centre  line  A,  which  shows  the  centre  of  the 
cylinder,  and  at  the  bottom  the  base  B,  which 
shows  the  bed-plate  top.  We  have,  of  course, 
determined  previously  just  what  dimensions  we 
intend  to  use,  and  figured  all  the  lengths,  so  that 
we  know  what  height  the  engine  will  be.  For 
example :  the  cylinder  is  to  have  2-inch  bore, 
by  3-inch  stroke,  the  piston  is  to  be  I  of  i  inch 
thick,  and  the  steam  ports  \  of  i  inch  wide,  the 
cylinder-flanges  are  to  be  T3ir  thick  each ;  then 
the  length  of  the  cylinder  would  be :  top  flange 
tV,  upper  port  i5?,  including  piston  clearance,  pis- 
ton f  of  i  inch,  and  stroke  3  inches ;  bottom 
port  tV,  including  clearance,  and  bottom  flange 
tV ;  the  cylinder  top  and  head  is  the  same  thick- 
ness as  the  flanges  ;  and  the  stuffing-box  is  i  inch, 
including  the  gland  when  in  its  working  position. 
Now  add  all  these  together,  and  we  have  the 
net  length  of  the  cylinder  complete,  to  wit :  5^ 
inches  over  flanges,  and  6i  inches  over  stuffing- 
box  gland  screwed  home.  We  mark  these  sev- 
eral dimensions  (not  in  detail,  but  in  gross  as  on 
the  skeleton  drawing).  Whatever  clearance  is 
needed  between  the  cross-head  and  the  gland  — 
say  half  an  inch  —  is  then  marked,  and  the  length 
of  the  cross-head  jaws,  say  2  inches.  Right  in 
the  centre  of  this,  we  draw  a  circle  for  the  wrist- 


8  SMALL    ENGINES    AND    BOILERS. 

pin  so-called ;  and  from  that  we  .pleasure  the 
length  of  the  connecting  rod,  usually,  three  times 
the  piston  stroke,  say  9  inches.  This  also  gives 
the  centre  of  the  shaft-bearing  or  pillow-block 
when  the  piston  is  at  half-stroke.  Adding  these 
distances  we  find  a  certain  length  over  all,  to 
which  must  again  be  added  the  depth  of  the  pillow 
block,  measured  from  the  centre  of  the  shaft  to 
the  bottom.  This  gives  the  total  height  of  the 
engine  over  all,  from  top  of  cylinder  head  to  top 
of  bed- plate,  but  not  the  height  of  the  frame,  for 
that  depends  upon  what  sort  of  a  connection  is 
used  to  support  the  cylinder.  Suppose  a  bracket 
to  be  cast  on  the  cylinder  at  D,  then  the  height 
of  the  frame  would  be  from  the  under  side  of  the 
bracket  to  the  top  of  the  becl-plate  and  is  easily 
arrived  at. 

This  is  briefly  the  method  of  getting  the  main 
lengths,  but  has  nothing  to  do  with  the  details  of 
the  engine  itself,  and  must  not  be  confounded 
with  them  or  with  the  drawing,  Fig.  i,  which  is 
referred  to  as  an  example  only. 


SMALL    ENGINES    AND    BOILERS. 


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Fig.  3.     FRAME  OF  LAUNCH  ENGWE,  3"  x  4". 


10 


SMALL   ENGINES   AND    BOILERS. 


4.    BACK  LEG  OF  FRAME,  3"  X  4". 


CHAPTER  III. 

THE  plan  mentioned  having  been  followed,  we 
are  then  ready  to  design  details,  and  the  cylinder 
naturally  comes  first :  it  is  shown  marked  fin- 
ished sizes,  Figs.  40  and  5,  and,  as  will  be  seen,  is 
for  a  model  engine  of  3-inch  cylinder  by  4-inch 
stroke.  This  engine  will  easily  develop  5-horse 
power  at  800  revolutions  per  minute,  which  its 
short  stroke  enables  it  to  attain  readily.  For  such 
speeds  the  ports  must  be  large  and  the  exhaust 
free,  so  as  to  avoid  back  pressure  on  the  piston  ; 
a  suitable  boiler  for  this  engine  will  be  shown  in 
the  chapters  devoted  to  boilers. 

We  proceed  to  draw  the  cylinder  by  erecting 
the  centre  and  base  lines  as  before  mentioned  ; 
and  in  this  view  we  need  two  centre-lines  to  de- 
velop it,  as  shown  in  A  and  B.  The  several 
dimensions  alluded  to  in  the  second  chapter  are 
laid  off  in  their  order,  and  the  sizes  marked  upon 
them.  The  bracket  D  is  for  the  head  of  the 
frame  or  cylinder  support.  The  cylinder  will  re- 
quire two  views,  as  shown  in  Fig.  4^,  and  the 
designer  can  adopt  those  shown  or  make  any 
others  for  himself. 

All  other  details  for  this  engine  are  shown  in 
the  several  figures  following.  Another  style  of 

ii 


12 


SMALL    ENGINES    AND    BOILERS. 


Fig.  4a.    CYLINDER-PLAN  AND  SECTION. 


SMALL    ENGINES    AND    BOILERS. 


vertical  engine  which  is  much  simpler  and  easier 
to    make    is    shown    in    the    illustration.    Fig.    6 
This  engine  is  wholly  brass,  except  the  columns 
which  are  of  iron  ;  even  they  can  be  made  of  brass 
if  preferred.     The  cylinder  of  this  engine  is  only 
I  of  i   inch  bore,  by    i   inch  stroke,  and  weighs 


Fig.  5.     END  VIEW  OF  CYLINDER. 

but  i  pound.  It  has,  however,  driven  a  small 
torpedo  boat,  4  feet  long  by  6  inches  wide,  at 
the  rate  of  3  miles  per  hour  with  oil  fuel  under 
the  boiler ;  this  latter  will  be  shown  in  the  chap- 


SMALL   ENGINES   AND   BOILERS. 


Fig.  6.    SMALL  VERTICAL  ENGINE. 


SMALL    ENGINES    AND    BOILERS.  15 

ters  devoted  to  boilers.  There  are  no  figured 
dimensions  on  this  engine,  so  the  maker  is  left  to 
follow  his  own  ideas  in  regard  to  them.  As  may 
be  seen,  the  columns  are  turned  all  over,  and 
threaded  for  nuts  at  each  end.  The  holes  in  the 
bed-plate  and  entablature  are  no  larger  than  the 
thread,  so  that  the  latter  fits  tightly  in  them,  and 
the  several  plates  are  made  of  sheet-brass,  highly 
polished.  The  screws  in  the  cylinder-head  and 
steam-chest  covers  have  screw-driver  heads,  and 
the  piston  is  solid,  with  no  packing  whatever ; 
it  merely  fits  the  cylinder  tightly.  The  steam-pipe 
is  tV  bore,  and  the  steam-ports  are  iV  wide  by  1 
long.  The  slide  valve  has  uV  lap  over  the  ports, 
each  end,  and  the  exhaust-port  is  i  of  i  inch  wide. 
With  such  minute  dimensions  as  these  it  is  not 
possible  to  cast  the  ports  in,  so  the  whole  cylinder 
is  cast  solid,  and  bored  out  in  the  lathe.  The 
ports  are  made  by  drilling  in  the  end  of  the  cyl- 
inder at  the  proper  place  and  on  the  valve  face, 
and  the  metal  between  the  holes  cut  out  with  a 
small  drift. 

It  cannot  be  said  of  such  engines  that  they  are 
of  any  particular  use  ;  but  they  serve  as  studies 
in  small  work  and  close  fitting,  for  as  this  en- 
gine makes  some  2,000  revolutions  per  minute, 
it  must  be  well  made  to  stand  the  racket.  The 
entire  height  of  it  is  8  inches,  and  width  of  base 
3^  inches.  Horizontal  engines  are  shown,  as  a 
type  of  modern  engines,  in  the  plates  to  follow, 
which  can  be  made  of  any  dimensions  to  suit  the 


i6 


SMALL  ENGINES  AND  BOILERS. 


SMALL  ENGINES  AND  BOILERS.  17 

views  of  the  maker.  The  bed-plate  is  cast  in 
one  piece,  faced  in  the  lathe  on  the  end  where 
the  cylinder  is  fastened,  and  has  a  single  eccen- 
tric directly  connected  to  the  valve-stem  without 
any  rocker  arm.  A  good  proportion  for  it  is  to 
make  the  cylinder  i\  inch  diameter  by  3  inches 
stroke,  ports  T\  wide  by  i  inch  long,  exhaust- 
port  I  wide  by  i  inch  long,  and  lap  of  valve  i  on 
each  end.  The  eccentric  should  have  &  throw, 
have  a  hole  \  inch  diameter  for  the  shaft,  and 
be  1 2  inch  diameter  over  all,  with  a  groove,  I 
of  an  inch  wide  by  iV  deep ;  the  straps  for  the 
eccentric  should  be  of  brass. 

A  more  elaborate  plan  with  figured  dimensions 
is  shown  on  page  6i,.et  seq. 


CHAPTER   IV. 

TORPEDO-BOAT  engines,  so  called,  are  simply 
vertical  engines  of  the  type  shown  in  Fig.  6,  being 
very  light  and  driven  at  very  high  speed  as  to 
revolutions.  There  are  no  other  peculiarities 
about  them.  They  are  all  steel  as  to  the  connec- 
tions ;  and  the  shafts,  piston-rods,  and  connecting- 
rods  are  hollow  to  reduce  the  weight  of  them, 
and,  it  is  needless  to  say,  are  built  in  the  very 
best  manner. 

Of  course  there  are  innumerable  other  classes 
of  engines  in  use  to  some  extent,  but  those 
shown  are  the  principal  ones.  Oscillating  en- 
gines are  no  longer  used  for  any  purpose,  except 
here  and  there  for  small  pumps  or  other  special 
work.  Neither  are  vibrating  engines,  so-called, 
which  have  a  piston  like  a  door  swinging  on  its 
hinges,  or  square  cylinder  engines,  which  consist 
of  two  rectangular  pistons  (one  inside  the  other), 
moving  in  a  square  cast-iron  box.  I  do  not 
show  these  engines ;  for  they  are  in  the  nature  of 
freaks,  and  are  of  no  particular  interest  when 
made.  Nothing  is  to  be  seen  externally  except 
square  or  round  cast-iron  boxes,  without  any 
finish  or  moving  parts.  The  same  is  true  of  the 
rotary  engine.  It  is  merely  a  more  or  less  com- 

18 


SMALL    ENGINES    AND    BOILERS.  19 

plicated  wheel  (or  piston)  revolved  by  steam  in  a 
cylindrical  case,  and  takes  a  lot  of  steam  to  run 
it.  That  is  why  it  is  not  in  use. 

Now  having  shown  several  types  of  modern 
engines,  or  those  in  daily  use  doing  the  work  of 
the  world,  let  us  look  at  the  methods  used  to  pro- 
duce them.  The  drawings  are  the  first  thing,  and 
these  have  been  mentioned,  but  after  the  drawings 

c^ 

come  the  patterns  for  the  castings.  These  can  be 
made  by  amateurs  with  ample  time  and  facilities, 
but,  as  a  rule,  they  should  not  be  attempted  ;  for 
they  involve  special  knowledge  as  to  facility  of 
moulding  them,  and  fine  finish  to  produce  smooth 
castings.  Moreover,  the  patterns  for  model  work 
are  so  small  that  they  will  cost  very  little,  and  it 
is  better  in  all  cases  to  get  them  made  by  reg- 
ular pattern-makers.  A  steam-cylinder  with  cored 
ports  cannot  be  made*  by  amateurs,  and  must  be 
got  from  men  skilled  in  the  business.  For  very 
small  work  no  patterns  are  needed,  for  much  of 
it  can  be  cut  out  of  the  solid  quite  as  quickly  as 
from  a  casting. 

The  next  thing  to  be  considered  is  the  tools  to 
be  used,  and  this  is  an  important  matter.  It  is 
quite  useless  to  undertake  to  do  good  work  with- 
out the  proper  tools,  —  sharp  files,  reamers,  and 
screw-cutting  tools.  These  last  are  now  made 
so  cheaply,  and  with  such  excellent  threads  and 
dies,  that  no  amateur  should  be  without  a  set. 
Where  it  can  be  avoided  there  is  no  need  of  cut- 
ting a  thread  in  the  lathe,  for  small  rods  are  very 


2O  SMALL    ENGINES    AND    BOILERS. 

hard  to  handle  in  this  way.  But  a  few  years  ago 
there  was  nothing  better  to  be  had  than  a  Stubbs's 
jam-plate,  so-called,  because  it  made  a  thread  by 
pushing  or  jamming  the  metal  in  ridges  ahead  of 
it ;  but  the  modern  screw-sets  cut  long  shavings 
out  of  the  metal  as  they  advance,  and  are  far 
better  and  quicker  for  amateurs  than  threads  cut 
with  a  tool  in  a  lathe. 

Lathes  themselves  vary  greatly,  and  some  are 
not  worth  the  room  they  occupy.  Where  money 
is  no  object  there  is  no  excuse  for  having  a  bad 
lathe ;  and  while  they  can  be  bought  for  almost 
any  price  (foot-power  lathes  are  alluded  to),  it  is 
better  to  get  a  modern  lathe  of  the  Pratt  and 
Whitney,  or  Gisholt  Machine  Company's  make 
than  a  mere  trap  which  never  by  any  chance  turns 
anything  the  same  size  for  three  consecutive 
inches.  Cheap  lathes  cost  about  $60, —  those  with 
slide  rests,  so-called,  and  screw-cutting  gear,  — 
but  a  good  reliable  tool  will  cost  from  $150  to 
$250;  but  it  is  complete  in  all  parts,  with  many 
extra  fixtures  for  doing  work  not  belonging  to 
lathes  usually,  such  as  milling,  gear-cutting,  angle- 
plates  for  facing,  etc.,  and  is  well  worth  the  extra 
cost.  Some  of  the  better  class  of  lathes  are  fitted 
with  small  countershafts  carried  on  standards  set 
in  the  top  of  the  table,  so  as  to  drive  special 
cutters  or  emery  wheels  for  surface  grinding.  For 
ambitious  amateurs  these  are  the  tools  to  buy ; 
although  it  is  not  to  be  denied  that  good  work 
can  be  done  on  cheap  lathes  if  men  are  skilful, 


SMALL   ENGINES   AND    BOILERS.  21 

and  are  willing  to  spend  the  extra  time  required. 
When  it  is  considered  that  one  buys  such  a  tool 
for  a  lifetime  it  is  better  to  have  a  good  one  than 
a  bad  one. 

To  dilate  further  upon  the  work  that  it  is  possi- 
ble to  do  in  a  lathe,  we  may  instance  the  plane  sur- 
face of  the  valve  seat  of  an  engine,  and  any  flat 
surface  usually  executed  in  a  shaper  or  planer,  or 
else  slowly  and  laboriously  removed  by  chipping 
and  filing.  The  cylinder  of  the  engine  alluded  to 
is  3^  inches  from  the  centre  in  its  widest  part,  so 
it  will  not  swing  on  what  is  called  a  6-inch  lathe  ; 
but  few  lathes  are  as  small  as  this,  and  if  the 
owner  of  one  has  no  better  means  of  doing  the 
work  in  question,  he  can  raise  the  head  and  put 
half  an  inch  of  wood  under  it,  lengthening  the  belt 
temporarily.  Supposing,  however,  that  the  lathe 
will  swing  it,  the  cylinder  is  chucked  on  the  face- 
plate, or  in  any  way  that  will  hold  it,  with  the  valve 
seat  out ;  it  can  then  be  faced  fair  and  true  the 
the  same  as  any  other  flat  surface.  The  steam- 
ports  should  be  filled  with  strips  of  wood  to  keep 
the  tool  from  gouging  or  jumping  in.  The  seat 
for  the  steam-chest,  which  is  lower  than  the  valve 
face,  can  be  squared  for  a  short  distance  so  as  to 
indicate  the  depth,  the  rest  of  the  metal  being 
removed  by  filing. 

Face-plates  are  very  essential  tools,  and  these 
can  be  made  in  a  lathe  easily,  up  to  the  full  diam- 
eter that  the  lathe  will  swing.  Get  a  couple  of 
cast-iron  disks,  made  as  large  as  are  needed,  j  inch 


22  SMALL    ENGINES   AND    BOILERS. 

thick.  Have  them  cast  the  face  side  down  so  that 
they  will  be  without  blow-holes,  and  also  have 
a  projection  on  the  back  i  inch  deep  by  3  inches 
diameter.  This  is  handy  to  chuck  them  in  the 
lathe  by,  and  convenient  for  use  on  vice-work. 
Turn  these  disks  all  over  to  remove  the  outer 
skin,  and  when  the  working  or  true  face  is  dressed 
off  rub  chalk  all  over  it,  and  hold  a  straight  edge 
on  it  when  running  slowly  in  the  lathe.  This 
will  show  at  once  whether  the  plate  is  concave  or 
convex,  and  the  workman  must  rectify  it  if  needed. 
Now  make  another  plate  in  the  same  way,  and  hav- 
ing trued  both  so  that  they  are  fair  all  over,  put  a 
little  flour  emery  and  oil  on  the  faces  and  grind 
them  together.  This  will  give  dead-true  surfaces, 
and  be  available  for  any  piece  of  work  that  is 
required  to  be  an  exact  plane. 

The  tasks  of  the  amateur  are  materially  lessened 
and  increased  accuracy  assured  by  the  infinite 
variety  of  small  tools,  gauges,  drills,  scales,  etc., 
which  abound  in  tool  stores,  and  every  one  en- 
gaged in  machine  work  should  have  a  full  outfit 
of  them.  It  is  useless  to  try  to  make  them  with 
the  same  accuracy  that  can  be  found  in  those 
purchased. 


CHAPTER  V. 

THE    ENGINE    DETAILS. 

WHEN  getting  castings  for  an  engine,  don't  take 
them  to  the  nearest  foundry  that  makes  any  kind 
of  castings,  but  send  them  to  some  concern  that 
makes  a  specialty  of  small  machine-castings.  If 
a  contrary  course  is  pursued  one  is  very  likely  to 
get  hard  iron,  full  of  scabs  and  with  bad  faces  on 
them.  One  concern  will  make  castings  for  4 
cents  per  pound  while  the  other  will  charge  10 
or  more  cents,  but  the  latter  is  much  the  cheapest 
in  the  end. 

Now,  suppose  we  have  the  castings  all  in  hand 
and  ready  for  machine,  we  naturally  take  the  cylin- 
der first  because  there  is  a  good  deal  of  work  to 
be  done  on  it.  Chuck  it  in  the  lathe  by  the 
flange,  and  face  off  the  opposite  flange.  Then 
take  it  out,  and  turn  the  other  flange  out  and  face 
that.  If  the  cylinder  has  been  well  cast,  and  the 
pattern  properly  made,  there  will  be  about  tV  of 
an  inch  to  bore  out  of  it.  Run  one  heavy  cut 
through  it  to  within  yV  of  the  proper  size,  and  see 
if  there  are  any  blow-holes  in  it.  If  there  are, 
and  scabby  places  besides,  caused  by  the  core  not 
being  properly  vented,  condemn  the  casting  at 

23 


24  SMALL    ENGINES   AND    BOILERS. 

once.  Do  not  try  to  fill  the  holes  up  with  lead 
or  anything  else,  for  it  will  be  sure  to  come  out 
when  steam  is  let  on.  A  bad  casting  cannot  be 
made  sound  with  putty.  If  the  surfaces  are  all 
correct,  try  the  bore  to  see  if  it  is  parallel.  Some 
lathes  bore  largest  on  the  outside  of  a  hole  and 
some  on  the  inside  or  bottom  ;  this  is  caused  by 
the  lathe-head  (or  spindle)  not  being  true  with 
the  ways,  and  can  be  easily  cured  by  putting  slips 
of  paper  on  the  ways  under  the  lathe-head  where 
it  is  needed  to  square  it  with  the  ways  on  the  bed. 
This  should  be  done  before  the  last  cut  is  taken 
out,  and  when  the  bore  is  verified  the  last  cut 
needed  to  bring  the  cylinder  to  size  should  be 
made.  Do  not  change  the  position  of  the  tool 
in  any  way  after  taking  the  cut,  but  bring  it  out, 
and  let  it  run  through  again  on  a  quicker  speed 
to  scrape  the  surface  over.  It  must  be  borne  in 
mind  that  boring  a  cylinder  is  a  continuous  opera- 
tion. The  lathe  must  not  be  stopped  on  a  cut  in 
the  middle  of  the  cylinder  and  started  again,  for 
that  will  make  a  ridge  in  it. 

Having  the  cylinder  properly  bored,  counter- 
bore  it,  as  shown  by  the  drawing,  TV  of  an  inch 
below  the  upper  end  of  the  steam-port.  Do  not 
make  the  mistake  that  some  do,  and  counterbore 
to  the  bottom  of  the  steam-port,  for  that  will  make 
the  piston  leak  badly.  The  piston  travels  to 
within  yV  of  an  inch  of  the  cylinder-head,  conse- 
quently it  travels  over  the  port ;  if  the  upper  end 
is  counterbored  to  the  bottom  of  the  port  that 


SMALL    ENGINES    AND    BOILERS.  25 

takes  away  the  bearing  of  the  piston  at  a  very 
important  part.  The  bottom  of  the  cylinder  must 
also  be  counterbored,  and  it  can  easily  be  done 
from  the  front  end. 

The  cylinder-flange  must  now  be  turned  exter- 
nally to  the  right  size,  and  the  end  of  the  steam- 
chest  also  faced.  It  will  be  seen,  page  53,  the 
lower  head  of  this  cylinder  is  very  small,  and  where 
it  enters  the  cylinder  is  only  ii  inches  diameter. 
This  hole  must  of  course  be  bored  at  the  same 
time  that  the  cylinder  is  ;  for  the  piston-rod  goes 
through  it,  and  it  must  be  true  with  the  cylinder- 
bore.  While  the  cylinder  is  in  the  chuck,  take  a 
boring- tool  with  a  square  nose  about  i  of  an  inch 
wide,  and  trim  off  the  edges  of  the  steam-port 
where  it  enters  the  bore. 

In  all  these  operations  go  slow,  but  go  sure. 
Do  not  attempt  to  hurry  anything  beyond  its 
proper  speed.  Do  not  spring  the  cylinder  by  screw- 
ing it  up  hard  in  the  chuck-jaws,  and  be  absolutely 
certain  that  the  chuck  is  true  on  its  faces,  if  the 
work  bears  on  the  jaws  of  the  chuck.  If  the  chuck 
is  not  true,  trouble  will  be  experienced  when  the 
engine  is  put  together.  The  flanges  will  be  out  of 
parallelism,  and  every  job  done  on  the  lathe  will 
be  wrong  and  hard  to  locate  as  to  the  cause  of 
the  difficulty. 

The  bracket  on  the  side  for  the  support  of  the 
cylinder  must  be  faced  off  on  the  bottom  side 
before  the  cylinder  is  removed  from  the  chuck 
after  boring ;  and,  as  the  cylinder  cannot  be  re- 


26  SMALL    ENGINES    AND    BOILERS. 

volved  completely  in  the  lathe,  the  belt  must  be 
thrown  off,  and  the  face-plate  revolved,  or  oscil- 
lated, by  hand,  running  the  tool  in  as  far  as  possi- 
ble, and  chipping-  and  scraping  the  surface  true 
where  the  lathe-tool  does  not  reach.  This  detail 
is  important,  for  if  it  is  not  well  done  the  cylinder 
will  not  stand  square  with  the  guides  without  a 
great  deal  of  trouble  to  make  it  so. 

Now,  having  the  cylinder  bored,  faced,  and 
turned  on  its  flanges,  chuck  it  so  that  the  valve- 
face  is  out,  and  true  that  up  as  explained  a  few 
pages  back.  Possibly  the  universal  chuck  will  not 
take  the  cylinder,  owing  to  the  flanges  and  pro- 
jections being  in  the  way  of  the  jaws,  in  which 
case  it  must  be  chucked  on  the  face-plate,  and 
supported  by  blocks  so  that  it  will  be  firm.  If  the 
lathe  is  large  enough  a  small  angle-plate  can  be 
put  on  the  face-plate,  and  a  bolt  run  through  the 
cylinder-bore  to  hold  it. 

The  exhaust-nozzle  must  be  similarly  dealt  with, 
for  this  has  not  been  cored  out  by  the  pattern- 
maker, but  has  been  left  solid.  The  cylinder  must 
be  chucked  with  the  nozzle-end  out,  and  a  drill 
run  in  as  far  as  it  is  safe  to  go,  taking  care  not  to 
run  into  the  cylinder  walls.  There  will  then  be 
left  a  blank  end  which  has  to  be  drilled  and  chipped 
out  to  meet  the  exhaust-port  in  the  cylinder.  This 
can  be  done  after  the  cylinder  is  removed  from  the 
lathe.  The  size  of  the  exhaust-pipe  is  ?  of  an  inch 
inside,  and  the  nozzle  must  be  threaded  for  the 
steam  fittings  of  this  size.  This  thread  has  to  be 


SMALL   ENGINES   AND   BOILERS. 


Valve  Stem 


cut  in  the  lathe  ;  a  pipe  tap  will  not  enter  the  full 
size,  for  the  hole  is  not  deep  enough.  The  cylin- 
der-heads are  straight-away  jobs,  as  to  the  upper 
one,  which  is  common  turning.  The  lower  head 
has  the  piston-rod  running  through  it,  and  should 
be  chucked  with  the  stuf- 
fing-box in  toward  the 
face-plate.  The  hole  for 
the  rod  is  then  bored, 
and  the  head  faced  and 
turned  to  fit  the  hole  in 
the  cylinder-bottom.  It 
may  then  be  put  on  an 
arbor  and  threaded  for 
the  stuffing-box  gland, 
turned  and  finished  all 
over,  and  then,  taken  off 
the  arbor,  re-chucked,  and 
the  recess  for  the  packing 
bored  out,  truincr  the  head 

o 

by  the  outer  flange. 

The  steam-chest  can 
now  be  put  in  the  lathe 
and  faced  off  on  both 
sides,  and  turned  on  the 
end.  The  stuffincr-box  is 

o 

screwed   into  the  end  of 


in 


that 


way 


the  chest,  and  is  more  easily  made 
than  if  it  were  cast  on  solid. 

It  should  be  said  here,  that  matters  should  be 
so  arranged  that  all  the  lathe  work  can  be  done 


28 


SMALL    ENGINES   AND    BOILERS. 


at  one  time,  instead  of  breaking  off  and  going  at 
the  other  fittings,   if  dispatch  is  any  object.     The 


details  will  then  be  ready  for-  fitting  and  for  drill- 
ing without  unnecessary  delay. 

In  fitting  on  the  heads,  and  all  details  where 


SMALL    ENGINES    AND    BOILERS.  20 

bolts  go  through  two  parts,  both  pieces  should  be 
drilled  together.  Sometimes  clamps  have  to  be 
Employed  for  this  work,  in  others  one  or  two  holes 
^an  be  drilled  first,  bolts  put  in  of  the  right  size 
and  screwed  up,  then  the  other  holes  drilled. 


V    i 


fori  ^  

LJ    i 

Cast  Iron 

> 

In  selecting  drills  for  tapped  holes,  take  a  drill 
that  will  just  fill  the  screw-die  without  shake,  then 
the  thread  will  be  full.  For  steel  it  should  be  a 
trifle  larger  than  for  cast-iron  or  brass,  for  the 
steel  is  tough,  and  taps  are  apt  to  break  if  the 
holes  are  too  small. 


SMALL    ENGINES    AND    BOILERS. 


x ^3%-"-  -Bottonr-of-Ghest ^ 


SMALL   ENGINES   AND   BOILERS.  31 

In  drilling  all  holes  that  are  blind,  that  is,  are 
not  through  holes,  look  out  and  not  go  too  far ; 
measure  the  exact  depth  of  the  hole,  and  make 
a  slight  mark  on  the  drill  shank  as  a  guide  in 
drilling. 

In  making  bolts  for  studs  that  are  to  be  screwed 
in  get  "  Bessemer  rods,"  so-called,  which  is  very 
soft  machine  steel ;  never  use  common  iron  wire 
for  this  purpose.  Cut  all  bolts  to  the  right  lengths, 
and  round  the  ends  over,  holding  them  in  the 
chuck  while  cutting  the  threads  on  the  ends. 

It  is  unnecessary  to  make  hexagon  nuts  nowa- 
days, as  they  can  be  had  in  tool  stores  down  to 
tV  of  an  inch  in  diameter.  Stove  bolts  for  ordi- 
nary common  work,  where  parts  out  of  sight  are 
merely  held  together,  can  be  bought  very  cheaply, 
down  to  i  of  an  inch  ;  they  come  in  all  shapes 
nearly,  button  head  and  countersink,  and  are  very 
handy  for  general  work. 

This  is  also  true  of  machine  screws,  so-called. 
They  come  in  all  sizes,  both  brass  and  iron,  with 
heads  of  all  shapes,  and  fit  standard  size  threads ; 
not  always  do  they  fit  the  taps  however. 

In  the  foregoing  directions,  it  is  understood  that 
reference  is  made  to  the  launch  engine,  Figs,  i, 
2,  and  3,  and  apply  to  it  wholly;  but  in  so  far  as 
general  work  or  execution  of  work  is  concerned 
they  apply  to  any  other  engine,  or  to  any  other 
machine  which  has  similar  details.  It  may  be 
remarked  also,  as  a  truism,  that  all  machine  work 
under  heavy  strains,  especially  where  reciprocat- 


^     OF  THE        'r^\ 

UNlVERSltY 

&HfQ^' 
32  SMALL    ENGINES    AND    BOILERS. 

ing,  or  vibrating,  or  high  rotary  speeds  are  involved 
must  be  "  iron  and  iron,"  so  called,  as  to  contact 
of  parts.  No  "liners"  or  false  strips  of  metal  of 
any  kind  must  be  interposed,  and  there  must  not 
be  any  false  holes  either.  Every  hole  drilled  in 
two  parts  that  are  one  part  in  the  end  must  be 
diametrically  opposite  the  other.  Absolute  integ- 
rity must  prevail  or  the  work  is  worthless  when 
done. 


CHAPTER  VI. 

FURTHER    DETAILS. 

IT  will  be  observed  that  the  frame  of  the  engine 
is  squared  top  and  bottom,  and  this  can  be  done 
by  chipping  and  filing  ;  but  it  is  wiser  to  take  it  to 
a  machine  shop  and  have  it  planed,  where  such 
facilities  exist,  for  it  and  the  guides  must  be 
square  with  each  other. 

In  this  engine,  and  all  small  engines  in  fact, 
the  design  must  be  so  arranged  as  to  the  machine 
work  that  it  is  certain  to  be  square  without  lining 
up.  It  is  impossible  to  line  up  small  .engines  of 
3-inch  bore  and  under,  for  the  parts  are  inacces- 
sible, and  ordinary  eyes  cannot  see  small  devia- 
tions. Moreover,  it  is  not  necessary  to  use  lines  ; 
squares,  for  straight  plane  surfaces  at  right  angles, 
are  better.  If  every  surface  is  true,  the  parts  will 
come  together  accurately,  and  the  engine  will  be 
noiseless  in  action.  As  a  rule,  small  engines 
"pound"  like  sewing-machines,  and  make  as 
much  noise  as  type-writers.  The  reason  for  this 
is  that  they  are  out  of  truth  all  over. 

I  have  been  explicit  in  these  directions,  perhaps 
diffuse,  for  the  reason  that  works  purporting  to 
give  directions  to  make  small  engines  abound, 

33 


34  SMALL   ENGINES   AND    BOILERS. 

and,  as  a  matter  of  fact,  give  no  directions  at  all, 
or  very  superficial  ones  at  best.  Skilled  work- 
men, of  course,  know  how  to  do  machine  work 
correctly,  and  are  aware  of  the  penalties  of  doing- 
it  incorrectly ;  but  as  this  work  is  intended  for 
amateurs  who  are  not  supposed  to  have  great 
experience  in  all  lines,  I  have  thought  it  better 
to  give  full  directions  to  produce  good  results. 
Persons  who  "know  it  all"  do  not  buy  books; 
it  is  only  those  who  wish  to  learn  and  are  willing 
to  learn  who  profit  by  them. 

To  return  to  the  engine  work ;  we  have  now 
got  our  cylinder  and  its  heads  out  and  the  steam- 
chest  partly  finished,  and  may  turn  to  the  piston 
and  its  rod.  The  latter  is  made  of  machine  steel 
and  is  threaded  on  both  ends  ;  one  where  it  screws 
into  the  piston,  and  one  where  it  screws  into  the 
cross-head,  with  a  check  nut  to  keep  it  from  turn- 
ing next  to  the  latter. 

These  threads  must  be  cut  in  the  lathe  and  a 
tap  made  with  finer  threads  than  the  average  ma- 
chine tap  for  this  size  hole.  The  thread  should 
be  not  less  than  20,  and  need  not  be  over  i  inch 
long  with  just  enough  taper  to  start  it  in  square. 
The  piston  (see  page  47),  is  screwed  on  the  rod 
and  the  end  of  the  latter  riveted  over,  a  hexa- 
gon on  the  top  of  the  piston  being  to  screw  the 
rod  into  the  cross-head.  The  piston  is  a  mere 
disk  without  packing,  and  is  made  as  light  as  pos- 
sible to  keep  the  engine  in  balance,  for  the  weight 
is  chiefly  on  top.  No  packing  should  be  put  in 


SMALL    ENGINES    AND    BOILERS. 


Fig.  9. 


36  SMALL    ENGINES    AND    BOILERS. 

small  pistons,  but  they  should  fit  the  cylinder 
tightly ;  the  leakage  amounts  to  little  or  nothing. 
The  piston-rod,  and  everything  else  to  be  turned, 
must  have  drilled  centres  in  it,  and  be  cut  to  the 
proper  length  so  that  the  centres  will  remain,  and 
the  piston  should  be  turned  all  over  inside  and 
out.  It  is  of  cup  form,  inverted,  which  makes  a 
little  more  clearance  on  the  under  side,  a  matter 
of  no  moment. 

The  cross-head  comes  next,  Fig.  9,  and  this  is 
made  of  cast-iron  with  brass  gibs ;  these  last  are 
made  fast  by  counter-sunk  machine  screws  tapped 
into  the  cross-head.  No  adjustment  is  required  for 
wear,  since  the  surfaces  are  very  large  for  an  en- 
gine of  the  size,  but  when  needed  pieces  of  paper 
can  be  placed  between  the  gib  and  cross-head.  It 
works  closely,  but  freely  in  the  guides,  so  that 
there  is  no  lost  motion.  The  cross-head  can  be 
wholly  made  in  the  lathe,  the  faces  of  the  jaws 
being  faced  parallel  by  centring  them,  and  put- 
ting them  between  the  centres,  or  by  putting  the 
cross-head  upon  the  face-plate  ;  the  ends  being 
turned  true  it  is  chucked  and  the  hole  for  the  rod 
drilled  and  tapped.  The  wrist-pin  hole  is  then 
bored,  and  the  job  is  complete  except  finishing, 
and  drilling  and  tapping  the  holes  for  the  gib- 
screws  ;  these  last  should  be  of  brass. 

All  the  pins,  cross-head,  and  crank,  and  those 
for  the  link  motion,  should  be  made  of  steel,  and 
carefully  turned  to  standard  sizes  to  fit  reamers 
or  reamed  holes, 


SMALL    ENGINES   AND    BOILERS. 


37 


Fig.  IQ, 


38  SMALL    ENGINES    AND    BOILERS. 

The  crank-pin  should  have  a  I  hole  bored 
through  it  to  lighten  it  up,  and  it  must  be  a  driv- 
ing fit  in  the  crank-eye.  When  put  in  the  crank- 
eye  is  to  be  heated  a  little  so  as  to  expand  it,  the 
pin  inserted,  and  riveted  over  afterward  ;  the  shaft 
is  also  of  machine  steel  finished  all  over. 

The  connecting-rod  is  forged  of  steel  in  one 
piece,  and  has  a  lug  on  one  side  for  a  binding- 
screw  to  take  up  slight  wear.  In  all  high-speed 
engines  everything  must  be  as  simple  and  as  solid 
as  possible  to  avoid  their  working  loose.  The 
crank- pin  brass  is  therefore  made  in  one  piece 
like  a  bush,  driven  in  to  the  connecting-rod  end 
and  slotted  ;  the  distance-piece  between  the  lugs 
goes  through  this  slot,  and  the  screw  holds  all  fast. 
The  bush  is  then  reamed  to  size  ;  and  the  rod  is 
attached  by  slipping  it  over  the  pin,  the  nut  and 
washer  on  the  end  making  all  secure. 

Now,  in  boring  the  crank-pin  and  shaft-holes  in 
the  crank  itself,  the  greatest  care  must  be  taken 
to  have  them  absolutely  true  and  square.  This 
is  one  of  the  most  important  jobs  about  the  en- 
gine ;  and  if  it  is  not  rightly  done  the  engine  will 
never  work  smoothly,  and  the  error  can  never  be 
remedied  without  a  new  crank.  The  way  to  do 
this  job  is  as  follows:  — 

See  that  the  face-plate  is  absolutely  true  before 
beginning  it,  and  do  not  allow  the  least  imper- 
fection in  truth  to  exist.  Then  bore  the  shaft 
hole,  and  face  the  crank  true  all  over.  Then,  hav- 
ing laid  out  its  length  from  centre  to  centre  pre- 


SMALL    ENGINES    AND    BOILERS. 


39 


Fig,  zx, 


4O  SMALL    ENGINES   AND    BOILERS. 

viously,  reverse  the  crank  and  put  the  face-side 
next  to  the  face-plate,  with  the  crank-eye  in  the 
centre  in  position  to  be  drilled,  being  sure  that 
the  crank  is  flat  against  the  face-plate  all  over. 

t-J  *'< 


The  eccentrics  are  of  cast-iron,  and  can  be  all 
finished  in  the  lathe  without  any  trouble  at  all. 
Chuck  them  true,  and  face  them  off  both  sides, 
then  bore  the  hole  on  one  side  for  the  shaft. 


CHAPTER  VII. 

WE  must  now  consider  the  link  and  its  con- 
nections;  and  in  this  job  the  amateur  will  have  an 
opportunity  to  show  his  ability  or  the  want  of  it, 
for  it  is  a  very  important  detail.  It  must  work 
freely  in  all  parts,  and  yet  have  no  lost  motions  ; 
the  link-block  must  bear  squarely  on  both  faces 
of  the  link,  fit  closely,  and  slide  easily ;  the  pins 
in  the  lugs  must  be  a  tight  fit  without  binding, 
and  the  whole,  though  made  of  many  pieces,  be 
as  if  it  was  in  one  piece.  The  first  thing  to  be 
done  is  to  face  both  sides  in  the  lathe  to  an  equal 
thickness,  then  lay  off  the  radius  or  curve  of  the 
link  to  the  size  marked  on  the  drawing  and  then 
the  several  holes.  These,  and  all  other  holes 
drilled,  must  be  standard  sizes,  and  allowance  of  £f 
made  for  reaming  them.  After  the  holes  are 
reamed  they  must  be  lapped  out,  as  it  is  called, 
in  order  to  obtain  a  perfect  surface  ;  for  these  bear- 
ings have  a  great  deal  of  work  to  do. 

Lapping  is  accomplished  in  this  instance  by 
casting  a  piece  of  lead  i  inch  in  diameter  and  3 
inches  long  ;  put  it  in  the  chuck,  and  turn  one  end 
to  the  size  of  the  hole,  and  about  i  inch  long. 
Then  apply  oil  and  the  finest  flour  emery  or  cro- 
cus, and  polish  the  interior  as  smooth  as  possible. 

41 


42  SMALL    ENGINES    AND    BOILERS. 

Run  the  lathe  on  the  highest  speed,  and  keep  the 
work  moving  back  and  forth,  turning  it  all  the 
while.  When  the  pins  that  go  in  the  hole  are 
fitted  they  should  be  similarly  treated,  so  that  they 


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L 

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v  ;     r~~~~ 

1       \^^X 

p 

will  be  perfectly  smooth  and  true,  and  without  the 
least  shake  in  the  hole. 

It  will  be  observed  that  there  are  two  wrought- 
iron  jaws  on  the  eccentric-rods  that  engage  with 
the  links;  these  are  too  small  to  forge,  and  the 
best  way  to  make  them  is  to  get  a  piece  of  square 


SMALL   ENGINES    AND    BOILERS. 


43 


iron  forged  to  size  of  both  jaws,  and  then  drill  the 
slot  as  shown  in  the  sketch.  This  makes  it  handy 
to  turn  the  ends,  and  drill  the  holes  for  the  taps  ; 
and  both  jaws  are  exactly  alike  then,  the  drilled 


Cut  I  here 


slot  being,  of  course,  cut  out  square  and  filed  true, 
the  jaws  being  separated  afterward  by  dividing 
into  two  parts. 

The  link-block  should  be  made  of  hard  brass, 


44  SMALL    ENGINES    AND    BOILERS. 

well  hammered  before  tooling  to  condense  it,  and 
it  must  fit  the  slot  in  the  link  accurately.  To  do 
this  it  will  be  necessary  to  use  a  scraper,  for  no 
files  can  be  used  on  small  high  places. 

In  drilling-  the  holes  for  the  steam-chest  bolts, 

O 

great  care  must  be  taken  also.  Drill  the  chest 
first,  then  put  it  on  the  cylinder,  and  drill  two  holes 
on  opposite  ends  through  the  chest-holes  in  the 
flange,  or  steam-chest  seat,  on  the  cylinder;  tap 
these  holes  out,  and  screw  the  bolts  that  belong 
in  them  down  hard.  Then  drill  the  rest  of  the 
holes  through  the  chest  into  the  flange  ;  it  is  only 
necessary  to  drill  far  enough  to  mark  the  position 
of  the  holes  accurately,  using  a  drill  the  full  size 
of  the  hole  in  the  chest  and  afterward  substituting 
the  drill  for  the  tap.  If  this  is  properly  done,  every 
bolt  will  go  in  square  and  true  ;  if  it  is  not  prop- 
erly done,  much  trouble  will  be  found  in  getting 
the  bolts  in.  The  cover  can  be  drilled  in  the 
same  way. 

These  instructions  seem  to  an  expert  workman 
unnecessary;  but  they  are  not  to  amateurs,  to  whom 
this  book  is  addressed  ;  it  is  from  the  small  things, 
apparently  small,  that  great  annoyances  and  extra 
work  arises  if  they  are  not  properly  executed. 

The  valve  should  also  be  of  hard  brass  ;  put  in 
the  vice,  and  face  it  off  to  the  proper  length  as 
shown  by  the  drawing,  being  careful  to  keep  the 
ends  or  port  faces  of  the  same  length  from  the 
exhaust-port.  Measure  this  cavity,  and  see  if  it 
is  as  wide  as  the  inside  edges  of  the  ports  on  the 


SMALL    ENGINES    AND    BOILERS. 


45 


r—  TT+- 

ir-T-    I 

_____i4- 

fHi  *' 

*_j_ 

U__[£  i- 

"••I  "]"" 

ii  iL 

r 

2n   i 

, 


Fig.  12. 


46  SMALL    ENGINES    AND    BOILERS. 

cylinder,  as  per  diagram,  having,  of  course,  dressed 
out  the  cylinder  ports  with  file  and  chisel  so  that 
they  are  square  and  true ;  then  put  the  valve  in 
the  chuck  and  square  the  working  face  true. 
When  this  is  done  try  the  face-plate  on  the  cyl- 
inder and  dress  it  fair,  and  do  the  same  by  the 
valve,  scraping  both  to  an  accurate  fit.  No  emery 
must  be  used  on  this  job,  as  it  will  run  down  into 
the  ports  and  be  blown  into  the  cylinder  when  the 
engine  is  put  to  work.  The  nut  on  the  valve-stem 
which  drives  the  valve  must  fit  the  lugs  on  the 
back  closely,  yet  not  stiff  enough  to  cock  the 
valve  when  it  is  driven  back  and  forth  at  high 
speed. 

The  piston-rod  must  be  carefully  turned  and 
threaded  for  both  the  cross-head  and  the  piston, 
and  the  latter  must  be  screwed  on  hard  to  its  seat, 
the  rod  riveted  over,  and  both  put  in  the  centres 
and  finished  to  size,  the  rod  being  draw-filed  at  the 
last  operation. 

Do  not  make  any  mistake  about  this  job,  such 
as  thinking  it  will  make  no  difference  if  the  lathe 
centres  run  out  a  little  bit.  It  will  make  the  great- 
est difference,  — a  fraction  of  an  inch,  a  very  small 
one,  of  error  will  make  parts  bind  when  they  are 
assembled,  and  it  will  be  hard  to  discover  where 
the  bind  is.  Absolute  truth  in  work  is  of  the  first 
importance,  then  there  will  be  no  binding  ;  and  no 
fussing  with  files  in  the  wrong  place  when  assem- 
bling. 

The  shaft  should  be  turned  to  the  proper  size 


SMALL    ENGINES    AND    BOILERS. 


47 


and  finished  all  over,  the  crank-end  being  left  the 
thickness  of  a  piece  of  letter-paper  larger  than  the 
bore  of  it.  The  crank  should  then  be  heated 


Handle 
/;¥      Here 


REVERSE  GEAR. 


slightly,  enough  to  expand  it,  and  the  crank 
slipped  on ;  when  it  is  cold  it  will  be  solid  in  its 
place,  but  a  quarter-inch  hole  should  be  drilled  at 
the  junction  of  the  crank  and  shaft  and  a  steel  pin 


4?  SMALL    ENGINES    AND    BOILERS. 

driven  in  tightly.     This  pin  must  be  turned  to  fit, 
or  it  will  work  out  when  running. 

Now  suppose  that  all  the  parts  are  finished  and 
ready  to  put  together.  The  first  thing  to  be  done 
is  to  set  the  cross-head  between  the  guides  in 
the  centre  of  them,  measure  top  and  bottom,  and 
screw  the  frame  up  solidly  on  it  with  a  couple  of 
clamps,  one  on  each  side,  being  careful  not  to 
spring  the  frame,  and  being  sure  to  screw  up 
fairly  on  both  sides.  Observe  also  that  the  top 
and  bottom  of  both  frames  bear  fairly,  as  shown 
on  a  straight  edge  held  across  them  and  that  they 
are  square  sidewise  with  the  cross-head.  It  might 
be  thought  that  the  cross-head  would  prevent  any 
distortion  of  surfaces  by  reason  of  its  long  bear- 
ings and  its  width ;  but  this  is  not  the  case,  and 
every  operation  must  be  verified  before  proceeding 
to  the  next  one. 


CHAPTER  VIII. 

HAVING  the  frame  square  and  true  in  its  place, 
set  the  cylinder  in  its  place,  with  the  bottom  head 
on,  and  put  in  the  piston  and  rod.  See  if  the  rod 
enters  the  cross-head  fairly,  and  screws  down  in  it 
easily  without  any  bind  or  twist.  Then  examine 
the  position  of  the  cylinder  with  regard  to  the 
brackets  and  their  bearing  upon  the  head  of  the 
frame.  A  very  slight  coating  of  red  paint  on 
the  under  side  of  the  brackets  should  be  used,  and 
the  cylinder  moved,  or  twisted  a  little  sidewise, 

when  the  actual  bearina-s  will  be  shown.     These 

. 
last    must    be    iron    and    iron,   each   part   setting 

squarely  on  the  other ;  if  this  is  not  done  when 
the  bolts  are  put  in  and  screwed  up  there  will  be 
great  distortion  of  the  parts,  and  the  cylinder  will 
be  thrown  out  of  line  with  the  guides.  The  noise- 
less action  of  the  engine  depends  upon  the  ac- 
curacy with  which  the  work  is  done.  No  liners, 
pieces  of  tin  or  brass,  must  be  put  in  between  the 
brackets  and  frame  ;  all  must  be  in  actual  contact. 
It  is  now  in  order  to  set  the  cylinder  and  frame  on 
the  bed-plate  where  it  belongs,  the  holes  having 
been  previously  drilled  in  the  lugs  on  the  bottom 
for  the  bolts.  The  frame  must  be  carefully  cen- 
tred with  a  centre-line,  drawn  on  the  bed-plate 

49 


5O  SMALL    ENGINES    AND    BOILERS. 

where  the  centre  of  the  shaft  comes,  so  that  the 
crank  will  revolve  equally,  and  the  crank-shaft  and 
pillow-block  set  in  place  to  square  by,  or  from. 


-1 


Bed  Plate 


-f:— -, 


-T 1- h 

^xgi  Center  of  [  Shaft  Bearing 


" 6- 

C.  of  Cylinder 


BED  PLATE,  3"  x  4". 


When  this  is  done,  take  a  sharp  scriber  and  mark 
through  the  holes  in  the  lugs  onto  the  bed-plate 
to  locate  the  holes.  This  must  be  very  carefully 


SMALL    ENGINES    AND    BOILERS.  51 

done  indeed,  and  is  a  job  for  an  expert  mechanic, 
for  there  is  no  alteration  possible  after  the  holes 
are  drilled.  They  must  be  reamed  for  turned  bolts 
and  no  oblong,  filed-out-on-one-side  holes  will 
answer.  Unless  the  workman  is  absolutely  certain 
of  his  ability  to  do  this  work  properly,  he  should 
take  the  job  to  a  shop  where  there  are  good  work- 
men, and  then  watch  the  good  workmen. 

This  holds  good  with  the  holes  for  the  pillow- 
block  also,  every  detail  must  be  square  and  true 
with  every  other  detail  ;  when  it  is  so  the  builder 
can  turn  his  back  on  the  engine  at  work  and  not 
know  that  there  is  one  in  the  vicinity.  The 
holes  in  the  brackets  on  the  cylinder  must  have 
been  drilled  prior  to  setting  it  in  place ;  when  it 
is  finally  adjusted,  so  that  the  cross-head  works 
properly  in  the  guides,  put  clamps  on  the  brack- 
ets and  frame  so  as  to  hold  it  firmly ;  then  try  the 
cross-head  again  to  see  if  the  cylinder  has  been 
shifted  during  the  operation,  then  drill  the  frame 
through  the  holes  in  the  bracket ;  and  when  the 
bolts  are  put  in  everything  will  be  solid  iron  and 
iron,  and  the  engine  will  be  in  line  all  over. 

There  are  difficulties  connected  with  drilling 
these  holes  just  named  in  a  lathe  ;  on  account  of 
the  size  and  shape  of  the  parts  they  cannot  be 
brought  to  the  drill  readily;  where  this  is  the 
case  the  job  must  be  taken  to  a  machine-shop 
where  there  is  an  upright  drill-press. 


CHAPTER   IX. 

THIS  engine,  if  constructed  according  to  the 
drawings  furnished  (not  mere  designs,  but  work- 
ing drawings  from  which  an  engine  has  been 
made),  will  deliver  5-horse-power  easily  at  800 
revolutions  per  minute  with  150  pounds  steam- 
pressure  ;  even  more  than  that,  but  this  is  a  fair 
average.  Such  an  engine  will  drive  a  2 5 -foot 
boat  by  5  feet  beam,  or  width,  8  miles  an  hour, 
carrying  20  persons,  or  it  will  drive  a  small  machine 
shop  with  several  lathes,  drills,  and  other  tools 
in  it. 

If  it  is  not  desired  to  build  so  large  an  engine, 
the  amateur  can  exactly  halve  the  proportions  all 
through  and  make  a  very  neat  model.  This  would 
give  a  cylinder  i^  inches  diameter  by  2  inches 
stroke  ;  and  the  link  motion  can  be  omitted,  using 
instead  of  it  a  single  eccentric,  with  no  reverse 
motion,  directly  connected  to  the  valve-stem. 

If  a  horizontal  engine  is  preferred,  a  design  for 
the  cylinder  of  it,  ii  inches  by  3  inches  is  given 
(page  58)  ;  the  other  proportions  used  in  the  ver- 
tical engine  will  also  answer  for  this  engine. 
Changing  the  position  of  the  cylinder  makes  no 
difference  in  the  sizes. 

No  bolts  need  be  made  for  these  engines  unless 

o 


SMALL    ENGINES    AND    BOILERS. 


53 


54 


SMALL    ENGINES   AND    BOILERS. 


they  are  under  i  of  an  inch,  for  machine  screws  are 
so  universally  used  that  they  can  be  had  of  all  sizes 
in  any  tool  store;  the  same  is  true  of  nuts.  Bicycle 
parts,  or  nuts  at  all  events,  can  be  had  nickel- 
plated,  if  needed,  down  to  i  of  an  inch  in  size. 

The  crank-pin  connection  shown  in  the  details 
of  the  3 -inch  cylinder  is  so  made  from  the  fact 
that  the  rotative  speed  is  high,  and  it  is  necessary 
to  avoid  all  parts  that  are  liable  to  get  loose,  but 
another  form  of  connection  which  admits  of  greater 


adjustment  is  here  shown  which  requires  careful 
attention  to  make  it  properly.  It  is  commonly 
used  upon  large  vessels.  For  those  who  cannot 
get  forgings  made  a  connecting-rod  made  in  part 
of  steel,  or  iron  rods,  is  given. 

Referring  to  small  parts  suppose  it  is  necessary 
to  have  a  check-valve  for  a  small  boiler,  the 
water-passage  being  not  larger  than  |  of  an  inch. 
Then  get  a  brass  rod  £  inch  in  diameter  and  I 
long,  and  put  it  in  the  chuck.  Drill  a  ^  hole 
in  it  I  deep,  then  drill  a  i  hole  through  it.  The 


SMALL   ENGINES    AND    BOILERS.  55 

larger  hole  must  be  drilled  first,  for  its  bevel  forms 
the  valve-seat,  and  being  held  steadily  makes  the 
seat  true  and  without  chatters.  Now  take  a  small 
tool  and  enlarge  the  tk  hole  to  I  just  around  the 
seat  where  the  valve  comes.  This  leaves  a  cham- 
ber inside,  and  the  thread  for  the  cap  or  pipe- 
connection  to  the  valve-chamber  is  to  be  cut  on 
this  with  a  chaser.  In  the  end  of  the  cap  which 
is  screwed  into  the  valve-chamber  a  hole  ith  in 
diameter  is  to  be  drilled  for  the  end  of  the  valve 
spindle  as  a  guide,  and  the  valve  is  made  from 
a  brass  rod,  in  an  obvious  way,  ground  to  its  seat. 
Cocks  are  made  in  the  same  way  from  brass  rod 
large  enough  for  the  job,  or  from  small  castings. 
Small  pipes  of  any  thickness  metal  can  be  had 
from  pencil-case  makers  who  draw  tubing  of  ^V 
bore  if  needed.  These  are  silver  soldered,  and 
tight  against  ordinary  pressures.  They  cost  very 
little. 

It  must  be  borne  in  mind  that  simply  turning 
or  boring  objects  or  details  to  size  does  not  imply 
that  they  fit  each  other,  for  in  most  cases  they  do 
not.  Fitting  means  that  the  several  details  are  in 
absolute  contact  over  their  whole  surfaces  ;  a  very 
different  matter  from  merely  filling  holes  without 
shaking.  It  is  not  so  easy  to  fit  a  round  pin  to  a 
round  hole  when  they  are  of  small  diameter,  either 
by  turning  or  filing,  and  the  only  quick  and  sure 
way  is  to  grind  the  parts  together.  To  do  this 
well  requires  experience  and  patience ;  it  is  not 
a  job  that  can  be  forced  or  driven  but  must  go 


56  SMALL    ENGINES   AND    BOILERS. 

naturally  along  through  regular  stages.  The 
holes  are,  we  will  say,  i  inch  in  diameter ;  now 
having  drilled  them  closely  to  the  size,  take  a 
reamer  and  ream  them  out,  which  will  make  them 
cylindrical  at  least.  Then  turn  the  pins  full  to 
the  size,  so  they  will  push  in  tightly,  and  then 
apply  oil  and  floated  crocus  to  the  surface,  rotat- 
ing the  work  and  drawing  the  pin  in  and  out 
during  the  operation.  This  is  very  soon  done, 
and  the  time  taken  is  well  expended  if  a  fine  job 
is  required ;  but  the  work  must  be  thoroughly 
washed  when  completed,  so  that  none  of  the 
grinding  material  remains  on  it. 

Another  method  of  fitting  is  to  scrape  the  sur 
faces  so  that  they  are  in  contact,  and  for  an 
amateur  this  is  far  easier  than  it  is  to  file  them. 
Scrapers  are  of  two  forms  practically,  a  flat  nose 
and  a  triangular  point,  made  by  grinding  a  saw- 
file  slightly  convex  on  the  point ;  also  a  diamond- 
J3oint  hand-tool  can  be  used  to  good  advantage. 
The  main  brasses  of  the  engine,  shown  in  previous 
chapters,  are  bored  to  size  but  they  must  be  fitted 
to  the  shaft  bearing  carefully,  so  that  they  will  not 
heat  or  pound  at  high  speeds.  They  are  bored 
together  in  the  pillow-block  they  go  in,  and  each 
half  must  then  be  taken  out  and  tried  on  the  shaft 
with  a  very  slight  coating  of  red-lead  on  the 
journal ;  by  rubbing  the  brass  on  this  it  will  be 
seen  that  they  are  very  far  from  fitting,  even 
though  the  bore  is  apparently  smooth  and  true. 
All  the  inaccuracies  must  be  taken  out  by  scrap- 


SMALL    ENGINES    AND    BOILERS.  57 

ing.     The  same  course  must  be  followed  with  the 

o 

valve  and  seat. 

Amateurs  may  use  a  return-crank  motion  to 
drive  the  slide-valve  instead  of  an  eccentric,  for 
in  some  places  it  is  very  convenient.  A  return- 
crank  is  shown  in  Fig.  6,  and  is  very  simple  to 
make  ;  but  it  must  be  used  with  a  valve  without 
lap,  as  it  can  only  have  a  very  small  lead  or  open- 
ing-, as  will  be  seen  from  its  construction  and  prin- 
ciple. The  stroke  of  the  valve  can  be  materially 
changed  by  moving  the  shaft  end  of  the  return- 
crank  to  or  from  the  centre  of  it,  but  the  lead 
remains  practically  the  same.  For  a  small  hori- 
zontal engine  the  return-crank  is  very  satisfactory. 

The  design  herewith  is  similar  to  that  of  the 
Corliss  engine  with  the  exception  of  the  valve, 
which  is  a  slide.  The  cylinder  bolts  directly  onto 
the  end  of  the  frame;  and  the  pillow-block  and 
guides  are  bolted  to  the  bed-plate  by  screws,  as 
shown.  The  guide  is  a  tubular  casting,  bored  and 
reamed  true  in  the  lathe,  and  faced  and  turned 
true  on  one  end  before  removing  it  from  the 
chuck.  This  end  fits  the  cylinder  and  forms  the 
front  head,  so  that  when  the  parts  are  put  together 
there  is  no  lining  up  to  be  don.e,  and  the  cylinder 
is  absolutely  in  line  with  the  guides.  After  the 
guides  are  bored  they  are  cut  open  by  drilling 
along  the  central  line,  and  on  the  edges  of  the  cut 
a  brass  rod  slotted  or  sawed  for  its  whole  length 
is  fitted.  This  hides  the  raw  edge  and  makes  a 
neat  finish ;  or  an  iron  rod  can  be  used  if  preferred. 


CHAPTER   X. 

ONE-HORSE    POWER    HORIZONTAL   ENGINE. 

IN  this  example  of  a  horizontal  engine  all  the 
work  can  be  done  on  a  lathe,  which  is  a  matter  of 
some  importance  to  an  amateur  without  facilities 
for  planing ;  filing  true  surfaces  of  any  extent  is 
also  a  tedious  and  sometimes  an  unsatisfactory 
job  ;  in  this  engine  the  cylinder,  valve-face,  steam- 
chest,  and  guides  are  all  completed  in  the  lathe, 
and  the  guides  are  accurately  centred  in  place, 
so  that  there  is  no  lining  up  to  be  done  to  make 
them  come  exactly  true.  The  cross-head  is  also 
turned  in  the  lathe  and,  in  a  few  words,  the  fitting 
and  vice  work  is  reduced  to  a  very  small  quantity. 
Any  amateur  who  is  a  fair  lathe-hand  can  make  a 
nice  piece  of  work  out  of  this  design. 

It  is  proper  to  make  a  few  remarks  here  about 
the  power  of  these  small  engines.  As  generally 
made  they  are  mere  toys,  of  no  value  except  to 
look  at  a  few  times  and  are  then  thrown  aside  ; 
but  this  is  not  the  case  with  the  example  shown. 
The  reason  for  the  inutility  of  small  engines  is 
that  they  are  not  designed  to  do  any  work,  but 
are  hastily  thrown  together,  with  inadequate  bear- 
ings and  wearing  surfaces  ;  they  speedily  work 

58 


SMALL   ENGINES   AND    BOILERS. 


59 


6o 


SMALL    ENGINES   AND    BOILERS. 


bQ 

£ 


SMALL   ENGINES   AND    BOILERS.  6 1 

loose  all  over  and  are  mere  rattle-traps  and  eye- 
sores to  mechanics.  The  boilers  used  with  them 
are  of  no  value  either,  and  are  incapable  of  gen- 
erating1 steam  enough  at  high  pressures  to  do  any 
work.  With  the  boiler  shown  (of  the  vertical 
type)  this  horizontal  engine  will  easily  deliver  i£- 
horse  power  at  600  revolutions  per  minute  and 
100  pounds  steam  pressure  ;  and  it  will  do  good 
service  for  years  if  properly  managed,  notwith- 
standing that  the  piston  is  only  i\  inches  in  di- 
ameter. A  small  piston  running  at  high  speed 
with  reasonable  pressure  (not  under  75  or  100 
pounds)  will  do  a  good  deal  of  work ;  the  author 
has  in  mind  one  of  2^  inch  cylinder  by  6-inch 
stroke  which,  with  only  40  pounds  steam  pressure, 
runs  a  small  wagon-maker's  shop,  having  lathe, 
drill  press,  and  bolt-cutting  machines.  The  cost 
for  fuel  is  nothing,  while  the  advantage  of  having 
power  at  hand  enables  men  with  small  shops  to 
earn  a  good  deal  more  than  they  could  with  hand 
labor  alone. 

In  this  horizontal  engine  all  the  bearings  are 
larger  than  strict  proportions  require,  but  that  is 
an  error  on  the  right  side,  and,  while  it  is  not 
contended  that  this  engine  is  fitted  to  drive  a 
small  shop,  unless  it  be  for  amateur  work,  it  has 
the  ability  to  do  so  on  occasion  if  required.  It 
will  readily  drive  a  1 6-inch  engine  lathe,  or  a  bolt- 
cutting  machine  up  to  i  -inch  diameter  of  bolt. 

Referring  to  the  engine  itself  patterns  will 
have  to  be  made  for  all  the  cast-metal  details; 


62 


SMALL   ENGINES  AND   BOILERS. 


*. 


I18,"  Shaft 


II 

il 
i  i 


I    I 


fl* 


M-J 
* 


Fig.  15.     BED-PLATE  OF  HORIZONTAL  ENGINE. 


SMALL  ENGINES  AND  BOILERS.  63 

having  these  the  execution  of  the  work  can  pro- 
ceed rapidly.  In  all  jobs  of  this  character  the 
object  sought  is  to  do  as  little  useless  work,  or 
re-handling  as  possible.  All  the  lathe-work  on 
the  cylinder  should  be  done  in  sequence,  as  far 
as  it  can  be ;  not  a  part  at  one  time  and  another 
subsequently.  The  cylinder,  in  this  case,  has  no 
ports  cast  in  it,  they  being  too  small  for  handling 
for  the  average  moulder  ;  they  must,  therefore,  be 
drilled  in,  as  shown  in  the  drawings. 

To  do  this  put  the  cylinder  in  the  vice  and 
roughly  dress  off  the  valve-face  so  that  lines  will 
show  on  it.  Get  a  piece  of  blue-stone,  so  called, 
wet  it  and  rub  it  over  the  valve-face ;  this,  when 
dry,  leaves  a  deposit  of  copper  on  the  face  of  the 
work  so  that  lines  will  show  clearly  on  it ;  then 
lay  off  the  ports  as  per  drawing.  Having  done 
this  get  a  drill  T&  smaller  than  the  finished  width 
of  the  part  and  drill  down  to  the  depth  shown 
on  the  drawing,  leaving  but  little  metal  between 
the  holes  as  shown.  Then,  having  previously 
laid  off  the  ports  on  the  ends  of  the  cylinder,  drill 
through  to  meet  the  holes  in  the  valve-face  ;  when 
all  the  holes  are  drilled,  make  a  drift,  or  square- 
ended  chisel,  and  drive  out  the  metal  between  the 
holes.  This  operation  requires  care  to  make  it 
successful  and  there  should  be  several  drifts,  each 
a  little  wider  than  the  rest,  so  that  no  great 
amount  of  metal  is  removed  at  one  cut.  The  end 
of  the  port  where  it  comes  against  the  cylinder- 
head  is  to  be  cut  down  to  the  bore,  thus  establish- 


SMALL   ENGINES   AND    BOILERS. 

I 


o 


r 


Fig.  1 6.     VALVE  GEAR  OF  HORIZONTAL  ENGINE. 


SMALL    ENGINES   AND    BOILERS.  65 

ing  connection  to  the  piston.  There  is  ample 
metal  left  in  the  bore  to  do  this  work,  but  ama- 
teurs must  be  careful  not  to  drill  too  far,  or  so 


Fig.  17. 


that  the  point  of  the  drill  would  penetrate  the 
bore  when  it  is  completed.  Cutting  the  ports 
must  be  done  first,  so  that  subsequent  operations 
will  not  injure  the  faces. 


66  SMALL    ENGINES    AND    BOILERS. 

If  this  job  is  got  through  with  properly,  chuck 
the  cylinder  and  face  off  the  back  end  of  it ;  then 
turn  it  end  for  end,  and  face  the  other  end,  and 
square  the  flanges  where  the  guides  come.  This 
should  not  be  done  to  dimension  at  first,  but 
merely  to  get  the  heaviest  part  of  the  stock  off. 
Then  run  a  cut  through  the  cylinder  and  bore  it 
within  sV  of  the  size.  Very  few  amateur  lathes  will 
bore  a  true,  parallel  hole  of  any  length,  so  it  will 
be  necessary  to  make  a  bit  to  do  this  properly. 
This  bit  is  merely  a  reamer,  and  it  leaves  the  bore 
absolutely  true  and  parallel.  The  engraving  shows 
the  bit.  It  is  merely  —  in  its  simplest  form  —  a 
wooden  stock  with  a  steel  cutter  inserted  in  it,  and 
as  amateurs  have  little  use  for  special  tools,  it  is 
made  as  shown  to  meet  their  needs.  Take  a  piece 
of  any  close-grained  wood,  maple  or  beech,  about  6 
or  8  inches  long,  and  turn  it  as  shown  ;  make  a  saw- 
cut  the  whole  length  of  the  boss,  down  to  the  centre, 
and  insert  a  piece  of  sheet-steel  iV  of  an  inch  thick. 
This  must  be  filed  off  to  the  surface  of  the  wood, 
and  backed  off  so  that  it  will  form  a  cutter ;  harden 
the  steel  to  a  violet-blue  and,  having  started  a  cut 
in  the  bore  of  the  right  size  for  J  of  an  inch,  put 
in  the  reamer  or  bit  and  feed  up  on  the  tail-stock 
screw.  This  will  make  a  true  bore  as  smooth  as 
a  looking-glass  ;x  there  is  no  occasion  to  counter- 
bore  this  small  cylinder,  the  heads  fit  right  to  the 
bore.  The  flange  and  guide-seat  are  now  to  be 
squared  as  the  last  thing,  just  scraped,  so  as  to 
bring  them  true  with  the  bore,  and  the  outside  of 


SMAJX    ENGINES    AND    BOILERS.  67 

the  flange  turned.  It  is  well  to  be  very  careful  on 
this  operation,  for  if  the  tool  catches  in  running  it 
in  or  out,  or  in  setting  it,  and  the  cylinder  is  shifted, 
trouble  will  ensue  ;  it  can  never  be  set  exactly  true 
again,  the  only  resource  is  to  put  the  cylinder  on 
an  arbor,  or  mandrel,  and  square  it  in  that  way. 

We  have  now  to  deal  with  the  valve-seat  and 
steam-chest  flanges,  and  to  do  this  the  cylinder 
must  be  chucked  so  as  to  bring  the  valve-face  in 
the  right  position  ;  or  the  valve-face  can  be  trued 
by  putting  a  piece  of  iron  in  the  exhaust-port  for 
a  centre,  and  another  centre  in  the  foot,  or  leg,  on 
the  cylinder,  to  sustain  it;  this  is  much  the  easiest 
way  for  an  amateur  and  the  quickest  also  ;  but  in 
truing  the  bottom  of  the  cylinder  bearing,  or  foot, 
care  should  be  taken  that  the  bore  is  exactly  at 
right  angles  with  it.  To  attain  this  put  a  piece  of 
wood  across  the  bore  and  mark  the  exact  centre 
of  the  cylinder  on  it ;  then  swing  the  cylinder 
against  a  fine-pointed  tool  in  the  tool-post  and 
centre  it  exactly ;  be  very  careful  in  maintaining 
the  centres  exactly  while  turning  the  flanges  on 
the  valve-chest  and  the  foot,  for  if  the  latter  is  not 
square  with  the  bore  the  cylinder  will  cock  up  in 
front,  or  at  the  back,  and  the  bearing  on  the  end 
of  the  guide  where  it  is  fastened  to  the  bed-plate 
will  be  a  good  deal  out  of  the  way ;  the  thickness 
of  a  piece  of  thin  paper,  even,  on  the  cylinder- 
foot,  will  throw  the  guide-foot  off  over  TV  of  an 
inch. 

In  squaring  the  flanges  for  the  steam-chest  seat 


68  SMALL    ENGINES    AND    BOILERS. 

and  the  valve-face  it  will  be  noticed  that  the  latter 
is  TV  of  an  inch  higher  than  the  former ;  the  ports 
must  be  stopped  with  wood  so  that  the  tool  will 
not  dodge  into  them  and  mar  the  edges. 

Having  the  cylinder  all  dressed  up  in  good 
shape  the  steam-chest  is  to  be  taken  in  hand  and 
faced  up.  This  can  be  done  easily  and  quickly  in 
the  chuck,  and  the  whole  work  done  without  re- 
moving it.  Catch  the  chest  by  the  outside  of  the 
chuck-jaws  in  the  bore  of  the  chest  (there  is  no 
need  to  bore  the  chest  inside)  and  turn  it  all  over 
outside  and  square  the  faces ;  before  removing  it 
from  the  chuck  put  a  little  fine  emery  on  the  face 
and  hold  the  cylinder  up  to  it  on  a  fast  speed ; 
this  will  grind  both  faces  steam  tight  so  that  it  will 
not  require  a  joint. 

Mark  this  face  and  the  cylinder-flange  with  a 
small  centre-punch  so  that  it  can  be  put  on  its  own 
face  when  assembling.  Now  take  the  steam-chest 
cover  and  finish  it  up  all  over  and  grind  it  to  the 
steam-chest  also  ;  while  it  is  in  the  chuck  scribe 
a  fine  line  on  the  face  where  the  bolt  holes  are  to 
come,  so  that  they  will  all  be  central.  Do  not 
drill  any  hole  in  the  chest-cover  for  an  oil-cup, 
none  is  needed.  It  will  be  seen  that  the  valve- 
stem  stuffing-box  screws  into  the  chest,  so  that 
the  latter  can  be  turned  all  over. 

Now  take  the  guide  in  hand  and  bore  it  out 
with  the  same  bit  that  was  used  on  the  cylinder, 
for  both  are  of  the  same  size  ;  then  put  it  on  an 
arbor  (a  wooden  one  will  answer  if  it  has  metal 


SMALL    ENGINES    AND    BOILERS.  69 

centres),  and  square  up  the  flanges  where  they  go 
on  the  cylinder,  and  also  the  front  end  of  the 
guide ;  it  will  serve  to  show  whether  the  whole 
sets  square  on  the  bed-plate  by  using  a  try  square 
on  the  bed-plate  in  assembling. 

It  will  be  observed  that  the  guide-flanges  are 
checked  on  the  cylinder-flange,  but  the  engraving 
is  so  small  that  it  doesn't  show  very  plainly. 
This  is  done  to  centre  the  guide  with  the  bore,  so 
that  when  set  on  its  seat,  there  will  be  no  adjust- 
ment required  of  any  kind.  The  foot,  or  leg,  on 
the  front  end  of  the  guide  will  have  to  be  dressed 
square  in  the  vise,  as  it  cannot  be  got  at  in  the 
lathe.  Set  up  all  the  parts  together,  cylinder  and 
guide,  and  then  put  it  on  the  bed-plate  before 
taking  anything  off  of  it,  and  do  not  drill  the  holes 
in  the  cylinder-flange  of  the  guide-bearing ;  the 
guide-flanges  should  be  drilled.  When  it  is  found 
that  both  the  feet  are  square  on  the  bed-plate, 
then  the  holes  in  the  cylinder-flange  can  be 
marked  off  carefully  and  drilled  ;  without  this  pre- 
caution the  cylinder  and  guide-flanges  might  be 
set  on  a  cock-bill. 

Now  let  us  take  the  crank-disk  in  hand ;  this, 
also,  will  require  careful  work.  Turn  the  face 
outside  and  on  the  edge,  all  over,  then  put  the 
face  side  next  the  face-plate,  and  bore  the  shaft- 
hole,  and  face  the  hub  at  the  same  time.  Then 
lay  off  the  crank-pin  hole  by  scribing  the  centre 
of  it  with  a  sharp-pointed  tool  exactly  i£  inches 
from  the  centre  of  the  shaft.  Remove  the  disk 


SMALL    ENGINES    AND    BOILERS. 


Fig.  1 8. 


SMALL    ENGINES    AND    BOILERS.  Jl 

and  lay  out  a  f  hole  on  this  centre,  and  centre  it 
on  the  face-plate  so  that  it  is  ready  for  boring. 

Much  depends  on  the  integrity  of  this  job ;  for 
if  the  crank-pin  is  not  absolutely  square  with  the 
shaft,  the  engine  will  never  work  silently.  The 
crank-pin  being  out  of  square  throws  the  connect- 
ing-rod twice  the  amount  of  the  untruth  in  a 
revolution,  and  that,  in  turn,  lifts  or  twists  the 
cross-head  in  the  guides,  a  result  that  can  never  be 
remedied  in  any  way  except  by  making  a  new 
crank.  In  fitting  the  shaft  to  the  hub  leave  it  a 
trifle  larger  than  the  hub,  the  merest  shade  that 
can  be  felt,  or  so  it  will  barely  enter  the  hub,  then 
heat  the  latter  enough  to  expand  it,  and  put  the 
shaft  in  and  let  it  cool ;  the  shrinkage  will  hold  it 
securely,  but  there  is  a  steel  pin  driven  in,  as 
shown,  to  make  sure.  After  the  crank  is  shrunk 
on  in  place,  turn  all  the  bearings  and  finish  the 
shaft  to  size,  but  do  not  turn  it  end  for  end  in  the 
centres  ;  if  these  last  run  out  a  little  bit,  the  bear- 
ings will  be  out  of  truth  with  each  other,  the  axes 
will  not  coincide ;  the  crank-face  and  rim  should 
also  be  turned  up  and  polished  at  the  same  time. 
The  crank-pin  should  be  a  driving  fit  and  riveted 
over  on  the  crank-hub ;  turn  that  end  of  the  pin 
slightly  hollow  so  as  to  leave  a  raised  rim  all 
round  it ;  by  flattening  this  down  on  the  crank, 
very  little  hammering  will  be  needed  to  make  the 
pin  tight. 

The  pillow-block  brasses  are  to  be  fitted  in  and 
then  bored  to  size,  after  which  they  are  to  be. 


72  SMALL    ENGINES   AND    BOILERS. 

squared  on  a  mandrel  while  in  the  block.  Here 
is  where  an  angle-plate  comes  in  very  aptly  on  a 
lathe,  for  by  squaring  the  base  of  the  pillow-block 


in  the  vise,  or  between  the  centres  (which  is  the 
better  way) ,  the  brass  can  be  set  on  the  angle-plate 
and  the  brasses  bored  exactly  to  the  distance 
marked  without  using  a  mandrel. 


SMALL   ENGINES   AND    BOILERS. 


73 


— 


Fig.  ao. 


74  SMALL    ENGINES    AND    BOILERS. 

The  eccentric  can  be  faced  on  both  sides, 
turned  on  its  diameter  for  the  straps,  and  after- 
ward shifted  on  one  side  I  of  an  inch  to  bore  the 
shaft-hole.  The  straps  should  be  cast  in  two  parts, 
faced  on  the  lugs,  then  soldered  together,  and 
the  bolt-holes  drilled  the  size  of  the  tap-hole,  en- 
larging the  other  strap-hole  subsequently ;  the 
straps  are  to  be  bored  when  soldered,  and  after- 
ward melted  apart.  The  hole  for  the  eccentric- 
rod  can  be  drilled  and  tapped  better  when  the 
straps  are  asunder. 

The  valve  can  be  faced  in  the  chuck,  although 
it  is  so  small  that  it  is  just  as  easy  to  dress  it  in 
the  vise  ;  it  should  not  be  ground  to  the  valve- 
face,  but  scraped  to  a  true  bearing.  The  valve 
gearing,  rocker- arms,  etc.,  require  no  explanation  ; 
they  are  all  of  steel,  and  the  arms  are  made  as 
shown  in  the  diagram  on  page  75  ;  take  a  piece 
of  round  machinery  steel  large  enough  for  the 
job  and  turn  it  up,  as  shown,  to  the  outer  dimen- 
sions of  the  arm.  Then  file  it  off —  while  still  in 
the  chuck  —  on  opposite  sides  for  the  hubs.  Do 
not  cut  it  off  of  the  piece,  but  take  it  out  of  the 
chuck,  and  drill  the  holes  for  the  shafts  through 
the  hub  and  for  the  pin  ;  having  done  this  and 
found  out  that  the  holes  are  parallel  with  each 
other  (by  putting  tight-fitting  rods  through  them 
and  squinting  across  them),  cut  the  arm  off  the 
piece,  put  it  on  a  small  mandrel  and  square  the 
hubs  true ;  the  body  of  the  arm  can  also  be 
turned  flat  for  a  short  distance  as  a  guide  to  filing 


SMALL   ENGINES   AND    BOILERS. 


75 


Fig.  ai. 


76  SMALL    ENGINES   AND    BOILERS. 

it  later.  Very  small  details  can  be  made  in  this 
way  accurately  which  could  not  be  readily  handled 
in  any  other  way,  neither  caught  in  a  vice  or  held 
so  as  to  shape  them. 

Now  in  drilling  the  holes  for  the  steam-chest 
and  cylinder  covers  a  word  of  caution  will  not  be 
amiss.  Nothing  causes  more  annoyance  when 
assembling  than  holes  that  do  not  come  fair,  and 
tapped  holes  that  will  not  admit  the  bolts  because 
they  do  not  coincide.  It  is  easy  to  avoid  this 
trouble  by  following  this  plan :  select  the  drill 
to  be  used  for  the  taps  and  drill  the  holes  with 
that  first,  clear  through  as  far  as  it  is  to  go,  then 
enlarge  the  holes  the  bolt  is  to  pass  through 
afterward ;  by  doing  this  the  bolts  will  enter  fair 
every  time,  and  the  bodies  will  be  a  snug  fit  to 
the  holes.  Lay  the  holes  off  in  the  steam- chest 
cover  and  the  cylinder  covers  of  this  engine  ac- 
curately and  mark  the  centres ;  then  drill  two 
holes  on  opposite  sides  and  tap  them  for  the 
bolts.  Put  the  parts  together  and  screw  them  up 
tight ;  then  drill  all  the  other  holes  clear  through, 
as  they  are  to  be  when  complete. 

In  turning  the  piston  see  that  it  is  a  snug  fit  to 
the  cylinder ;  there  is  no  packing  in  it,  for  none  is 
needed ;  but  the  piston  must  fit  closely  and  yet 
run  free.  The  centres  in  the  piston-rod  must 
be  left  in,  and  also  in  every  piece  that  is  turned, 
and  they  must,  in  all  cases,  be  drilled.  No 
centre-punch  centres  should  ever  be  used  for 
anything. 


SMALL    ENGINES    AND    BOILERS. 


77 


It  is  proper  to  here  call  the  amateur's  attention 
to  a  method  of  finishing  small  cylindrical  castings 
where  a  scroll  chuck  is  not  available.  In  this  case 
a  wooden  chuck  is  made  and  bolted  on  the  face- 


Fig.  21. 


plate ;  it  is  then  turned  out  so  that  the  casting 
will  drive  in  tightly,  the  edges  of  the  casting,  or 
flanges,  being  turned  when  on  the  cylinder. 


SMALL   ENGINES   AND    BOILERS. 


Fig.  22. 


SMALL   ENGINES   AND    BOILERS. 


79 


The  connecting-rod  is  a  simple  job,  but  the  pin- 
holes  will  have  to  be  bored  on  a  lathe  which  will 
swing  the  rod.  This  rod  is  made  with  solid  ends, 
for  the  reason  that  the 
engine  runs  very  fast, 
and  small  details  will 
work  loose  in  spite  of 
good  workmanship. 
The  crank  end  is 
bushed  and  will  run  a 
long  time  without  wear 
if  the  pin  is  a  good  job 
when  first  made ;  when 
it  gets  too  slack,  it  is 
a  very  simple  task  to 
put  in  another  bush. 

The  cross-head  is  of 
cast-iron  with  hard 
brass  gibs  let  into  the 
jaws,  which  are  held 
by  two  bolts  in  each 
jaw.  The  cross-head 
can  be  all  squared  and 
trued  up  in  the  lathe, 
and  it  should  be  finally 
turned  on  its  guide 
faces  when  on  the  pis- 
ton-rod.  This  may  not 
be  possible  on  some  amateur  lathes,  as  it  needs 
a  steady  rest ;  lacking  this  the  cross-head  can  be 
screwed  into  a  short  mandrel  held  in  the  chuck. 


SO  SMALL    ENGINES   AND    BOILERS. 

The  fly-wheel  may  seem  small  to  some,  but  its 
circumferential  velocity  is  high,  over  1,200  feet 


Fig.  24- 


per  minute  at  600  revolutions  per  minute,  but  it 
is  amply  strong  to  do  its  work.  It  is  very  neces- 
sary that  it  should  be  absolutely  true  at  this 


SMALL  ENGINES  AND  BOILERS.  81 

speed,  and  it  should  be  secured  by  a  key  sunk  in 
the  shaft;  this  key  way  must  be  cut  before  the 
shaft  is  finally  turned,  or  the  cutting  of  it  will 
make  the  shaft  run  untrue. 

This    covers  all    the  details    of  the   horizontal 
engine  and,  as  stated  in  previous  lines,  it  will  be 


Fig.  25. 

found  wholly  satisfactory  in  action.  The  method 
of  setting  the  valve  is  the  same  as  that  shown  for 
the  vertical  engine. 

Now  let  us  consider  a  few  points  in  regard  to 
finishing  details  which  sometimes  puzzle  amateurs. 
There  are  parts  sometimes  which  are  very  thin 


82 


SMALL    ENGINES    AND    BOILERS. 


and  have  irregular  outlines  also ;  these  cannot  be 
caught  in  a  vise,  but  must  be  treated  as  shown 

I 

4- 


Fig.  26.     FLY-WHEEL  OF  HORIZONTAL  ENGINE. 


in    the    engraving.     Get  a  piece   of  hard   wood, 
preferably  of  the  right  size,  and  plane  it  true  on 


SMALL    ENGINES    AND    BOILERS.  83 

one  face ;  then  nail  a  strip  on  the  back  about  an 
inch  square  to  catch  it  in  the  vise.  Take  the 
piece  to  be  draw-filed  and,  laying  it  on  the  block, 
drive  brads  in  all  around  the  edge,  so  as  to  have 
a  wedging  or  clamping  action  when  driving ;  sink 
the  heads  below  the  work  and  there  is  then  a 
flush  surface  on  the  work  which  permits  anything 
to  be  done  on  it. 

It  sometimes  happens  that  an  engine  will  not 
run  when  steam  is  turned  on,  and  this  has  puzzled 
a  good  many  mechanics  at  times.  The  cause  in 
every  case  is  that  the  slide-valve  is  off  its  seat,  or 
cocked  in  some  way  by  the  valve-stem  nut  bind- 
ing it  so  that  it  will  not  seat  square.  Sometimes 
it  is  caused  by  the  gland  in  the  stuffing-box  being 
untrue ;  whatever  the  cause  it  must  be  removed 
or  cured  before  the  engine  will  work  properly, 
and  this  caution  is  given  to  enable  those  who  may 
have  any  trouble  to  find  and  remove  it. 


CHAPTER  XI. 

SETTING    THE    ECCENTRICS. 

SOMETIMES  persons  are  puzzled  in  setting  the 
eccentrics  of  engines,  and  do  not  get  them  in  the 
right  place  on  the  shaft  without  a  great  deal  of 
labor;  not  even  then  sometimes;  but  the  matter 
is  a  very  simple  one,  and  easily  understood.  It 
does  not  take  so  long  to  do  the  work  as  to  tell 
how  it  should  be  done. 

An  eccentric  is  merely  a  disk  with  its  bore 
on  one  side  of  its  mathematical  centre,  and  has, 
from  this  fact,  an  eccentric,  or  irregular  motion  ; 
but  it  has  no  other  peculiarity,  or  special  fitness, 
for  opening  and  closing  steam-valves.  It  is  no 
more  or  less  than  a  continuous  or  circular  crank, 
where  crank  and  pin  are  combined  in  one  body. 
It  is  supposed  to  have,  by  some,  an  irregular 
velocity,  but  this  is  not  correct,  for  any  given 
point  in  its  body  moves  at  a  regular  speed  around 
the  shaft,  the  same  as  a  crank-pin  does. 

There  is  a  long  side  and  a  short  side  to  an 
eccentric,  so  to  speak,  and  the  side  nearest  the 
shaft  does  move  more  slowly  than  the  long  or 
opposite  side,  but  the  velocity  of  the  wheel  itself 
is  regular  around  the  shaft  as  before  stated ;  the 


SMALL    ENGINES    AND    BOILERS. 


f 

1 

1 

? 

r 

• 

Trave^of  Vah 

- 

! 



| 

: 
[  J 

Lap 

i 

1 

Pig.  27. 


86  SMALL    ENGINES    AND    BOILERS. 

only  variation  being  as  it  approaches  the  centre 
or  points  of  no  travel,  when  changing  from  one 
direction  of  motion  to  the  other.  The  idea  of 
an  irregular  motion  was  doubtless  obtained  from 
looking  at  the  long  side  and  at  the  short  side 
alternately.  The  throw  of  an  eccentric  is  the 
distance  from  the  centre  of  the  wheel  to  the 
centre  of  the  shaft  that  it  is  on  ;  the  stroke  of 
the  eccentric  is  twice  the  above  distance.  These 
terms  are  not  the  same,  and  should  not  be  used 
as  if  they  were.  The  stroke  of  the  eccentric  has 
no  effect  upon  the  times  of  the  valve  action. 
The  travel  of  the  valve  operated  by  any  given 
eccentric  can  never  be  changed  after  it  is  once 
constructed  ;  that  is,  fixed  by  the  difference  or 
distance  of  the  shaft  centre  from  the  centre  of 
the  eccentric  itself;  it  is  only  the  times  of  the 
travel  that  can  be  altered  by  rotating  the  eccentric 
around  the  shaft. 

Let  us  take  an  imaginary  valve  and  eccentric 
to  explain  this  more  fully.  The  width  of  the 
steam-ports  is  i  inch,  and  the  lap  is  half  an  inch ; 
the  lap  added  to  the  width  of  the  port  gives  the 
throw  of  the  eccentric  or  its  travel  in  one  direction 
to  open  one  port  fully ;  manifestly,  this  is  the 
throw  (distance  of  the  centre  of  the  shaft  hole 
from  the  centre  of  the  eccentric) ,  because  in  a 
complete  revolution  the  valve  travels  the  same 
distance  in  the  other  direction  ;  it  is  then  said 
to  have  3  inches  valve  travel. 

Having  settled  these  minor  points,  let  us  con- 


SMALL    ENGINES   AND    BOILERS.  87 

sider  the  actual  process  of  setting  any  given  valve, 
slide,  piston,  poppet,  or  any  other. 

The  same  processes  apply  to  all,  modified  only 
by  the  valve  gear ;  of  this  last  there  are  endless 
types,  and  only  those  in  common  use  all  over  are 
alluded  to. 

The  engine  being  connected  in  all  parts,  it  is 
required  to  know  where  the  eccentric  should  be 
set  to  open  and  close  the  ports  properly.  If  the 
eccentric-rod  is  attached  directly  to  the  valve- 
stem,  the  position  of  the  eccentric  can  be  fixed 
at  a  glance  by  an  engineer  of  experience  ;  but  first 
he  finds  out  whether  the  valve  runs  square  as 
it  is  called,  before  he  attempts  to  set  the  eccentric 
itself.  If  the  engine  is  a  small  affair  the  whole  of 
the  details  can  be  connected  together,  and  the 
shaft  revolved ;  if  the  engine  is  large  this  last 
cannot  be  done  without  much  labor  and  an  ex- 
penditure of  time  which  is  quite  unnecessary. 
For  instance  :  to  find  the  correct  length  of  the 
eccentric-rod. 

Place  the  valve  at  mid-stroke,  lap  equal  at  both 
ends,  and  turn  the  eccentric,  not  the  shaft,  up  so 
that  its  longest  part  is  toward  the  steam-chest, 
whether  vertical  or  horizontal.  Now  take  the 
eccentric-rod  and  strap  attached,  and  put  the  strap 
where  it  belongs,  noting  the  position  of  the  con- 
nection to  the  valve-stem  and  that  on  the  eccen- 
tric-rod ;  mark  the  difference,  and  then  turn  the 
eccentric  in  the  opposite  direction  and  see  where 
it  comes  on  that  side.  Jf  the  eccentric-rod  travels 


88  SMALL    ENGINES    AND    BOILERS. 

equally  on  each  side  of  the  centre  of  the  valve- 
stem  connection  the  eccentric-rod  is  of  the  proper 
length  ;  if  it  does  not  travel  equally  shorten  the 
valve  half  of  the  difference  only  until  it  shows 
true.  When  the  valve  throws  square  set  the  eccen- 
tric (to  make  the  matter  simple) ,  as  in  the  diagram, 
and  revolve  the  shaft  only ;  there  is  no  occasion 
to  drag  a  heavy  piston  and  connecting-rod,  with 
their  attendant  friction,  back  and  forth.  If  the 
valve  has  too  much  opening  (lead)  when  the 
crank  is  at  the  end  of  the  stroke,  turn  the  eccen- 
tric-wheel on  the  shaft  (do  not  change  the  valve- 
stem  or  eccentric-rod  length)  until  the  opening 
is  equal  on  both  ends.  Then  the  valve  is  in  its 
proper  position  to  mechanically  open  and  close 
the  ports ;  but  its  real  position  for  the  best  results 
must  be  ascertained  by  indicator  diagrams.  Of 
course  the  reader  understands  that  the  crank  is 
on  its  dead  centre  in  all  of  the  above  movements. 

THE  LINK  MOTION. 

The  operation  just  described  applies  to  a  com- 
mon, straight  connection,  and  it  is  modified  to 
some  extent  by  rocker  arms  and  the  details  of  the 
valve-gear ;  but  the  operation  is  practically  the 
same  in  all  cases,  no  matter  what  the  details  may 
be.  Take  the  link  motion  used  for  reversing, — 
this  also  has  been  endowed  with  purely  imaginary 
functions,  the  link  itself  being  supposed  to  have 
some  part  in  the  operation  of  the  valve  when  it 
is  merely  an  adjunct  to  facilitate  reversing  direc- 


SMALL    ENGINES    AND    BOILERS.  89 

tions  of  motion  ;  the  link,  as  its  name  implies,  being 
merely  a  curved  strap  to  hold  two  eccentric-rods 
at  a  given  distance  from  each  other,  and  admit 
of  one  or  the  other  rod  being  thrown  in  or  out 
of  gear  at  will.  Erratic  motions  and  actions  of 
the  link  are  not  caused  (or  cured  either)  by  change 
of  its  form,  for  what  is  gained  in  one  direction  is 
lost  in  another ;  but  erratic  motions  are  caused  by 
the  length  of  the  link  itself,  the  length  of  the 
eccentric-rods,  and  the  throw  of  the  eccentric. 
This  is  only  another  form  of  saying  that  if  the 
radius  of  the  link,  its  point  of  suspension,  the 
length  of  the  rods,  and  the  throw  of  the  eccentrics 
are  not  properly  designed  in  the  first  instance, 
there  will  be  an  erratic  motion  of  the  link  at  one  or 
more  points  in  its  stroke.  Take  the  radius  of  the 
link  for  example  :  This  is  conventionally  the  dis- 
tance from  the  centre  of  valve-stem  connection 
with  valve  at  mid-stroke  to  the  centre  of  the  shaft ; 
but  sometimes  if  the  connections  are  very  short, 
indeed  this  gives  a  very  awkward  link,  of  short 
curve,  —  so  that  the  link  block  binds  or  works  hard ; 
then  the  link  is  made  of  longer  radius  than  the 
centre  of  the  shaft,  or  of  such  proportions  that  the 
engine  will  reverse  easily. 

If  the  engine  works  at  full  stroke  all  the  time 
this  doesn't  matter,  for  the  valve  can  be  made  to 
work  properly  at  full  stroke,  regardless  of  the  link 
radius.  If,  however,  it  is  intended  to  work  ex- 
pansively then  difficulties  arise  at  once  if  the  link 
is  of  an  improper  radius,  for  the  lead  increases  or 


9O  SMALL    ENGINES    AND    BOILERS. 

decreases  alarmingly  with  any  shift  of  the  link 
if  the  rods  are  straight  connected  or  "  open,"  as 
it  is  called.  If  the  rods  are  crossed  then  the  lead 
decreases  toward  mid-gear. 

It  might  be  supposed  that  when  the  rods  are 
of  the  proper  length  and  the  link  is  of  the  correct 
radius  then  there  would  be  no  motion  of  the  valve 
with  the  link  in  mid-gear,  but  this  is  not  the  case, 
for  it  will  be  observed  by  the  diagram  that  the 
centres  of  the  eccentric  wheels  and  the  centre  of 
the  shaft  are  not  coincident ;  so  that  in  a  complete 
revolution  there  is  an  eccentricity  of  motion  equal 
to  half  the  distance  of  the  variation  mentioned,  so 
that  there  will  always  be  a  motion  of  the  valve  in 
mid-gear  independent  of  the  throw  of  the  eccen- 
trics themselves. 

Now  as  to  setting  the  eccentrics  for  the  link- 
motion  on  a  direct  connection,  the  operation  is  the 
same  as  that  for  the  single  eccentric,  — both  eccen- 
tric-rods must  be  brought  to  the  proper  length  to 
make  the  valve  travel  square  before  anything  else 
is  done  ;  after  that  the  eccentrics  are  fixed  on  the 
shaft  midway  between  vertical  lines  and  horizontal 
lines  drawn  on  the  shaft,  that  is  to  say,  about  quar- 
ter-stroke, and  opposite  to  the  crank-pin,  as  in  the 
diagram.  The  shaft  can  then  be  turned  once,  a 
complete  revolution,  to  verify  the  lead,  and  the  job 
is  done  ;  the  eccentric  will  only  have  to  be  moved 
a  little,  one  way  or  the  other,  to  equalize  the  lead 
or  make  it  unequal,  as  is  often  done  with  large  and 
heavy  connections,  "Midway"  is  only  a  com- 


SMALL   ENGINES   AND   BOILERS.  9! 

parative  expression,  for  the  eccentrics  are  not 
midway  between  horizontal  and  vertical  lines,  but 
are  advanced  slightly  to  make  up  for  the  lap  and 
lead. 

It  will  be  readily  seen  that  it  is  a  very  simple 
task  to  adjust  a  link-motion  by  this  method.  The 
idea  of*  pinching  or  barring  a  heavily  connected 
engine  with  the  piston  in,  and  all  stuffing-boxes 
packed,  is  absurd,  but  it  is  very  frequently  done 
by  persons  who  should  have  thought  a  little 
further. 

To  sum  up  the  whole  operation  of  setting  an 
eccentric  on  a  shaft :  Get  the  eccentric-rod  of  the 
proper  length  first ;  then  set  the  eccentric  with 
the  longest  part  at  quarter-stroke,  and  opposite 
the  crank-pin  when  the  main  crank  is  on  the 
centre  ;  turn  the  shaft  once  to  equalize  the  lead, 
and  make  the  eccentric-wheel  fast  on  the  shaft. 
If  the  lap  and  lead  allowances  have  been  correctly 
made,  this  will  bring  the  eccentric  where  it  should 
be. 

MACHINE  FINISH. 

The  appearance  of  mechanical  details  is  greatly 
improved  by  the  character  or  the  finish  done  upon 
them.  Finishing,  so-called,  is  not  merely  to  sur- 
face polish  the  details,  but  it  comprises,  also,  the 
workmanship  upon  them  in  fitting  one  part  to 
another.  Slovenly  workmen  pay  no  attention  to 
sharp  corners,  true  surfaces  before  polishing,  and 
square  corners  where  they  are  meant  to  be  square, 


92  SMALL   ENGINES   AND    BOILERS. 

or  round  corners  where  they  are  meant  to  be  round, 
and  the  result  is  that,  even  if  the  work  is  well 
designed  otherwise,  it  has  the  appearance  of  a 
second-class  job.  Nothing  can  be  slighted  in  the 
way  of  fitting,  if  it  is  only  upon  a  small  model,  if 
an  amateur  expects  credit  for  or  satisfaction  in  his 
productions. 

As  regards  surface  polish  there  are  many  kinds 
of  this,  each  of  which  has  certain  values.  The 
simplest  of  them  is  to  produce  a  true  surface  by 
files  or  scrapers  without  scratches  or  hollow  places 
in  it,  and  then  polish  with  emery  cloth  of  different 
degrees  of  fineness.  This  is  much  easier  said  than 
done  to  those  who  have  had  no  experience,  and 
about  the  first  trouble  an  amateur  experiences, 
after  he  is  able  to  produce  a  reasonably  true 
surface,  is  in  keeping  scratches  out  of  his  work. 
Scratches  are  caused  by  the  files  "  pinning-up  "  as 
it  is  termed  ;  that  is,  minute  particles  of  metal  get- 
ting caught  in  the  teeth  of  the  file  and  tearing  the 
surface  of  the  work.  This  is  very  apt  to  occur 
with  fine  files,  and  workmen  can  tell  in  a  moment, 
with  one  rub  of  a  file,  whether  this  has  happened 
or  not;  the  file  should  be  cleaned  at  once,  and 
chalk  rubbed  over  it,  so  that  the  filings  will  have 
no  hold  on  the  file.  On  wrought  metal  or  steel 
the  file  should  be  greased  slightly,  and  cleaned 
with  a  wire  brush  occasionally,  to  keep  it  cutting. 
When  "  draw-filing"  a  finish  be  careful  to  keep 
the  line  of  filing  and  subsequent  polishing  exactly 
true  with  the  length  of  the  work,  not  helter-skelter, 


SMALL  ENGINES  AND  BOILERS.  93 

all  over  it  in  any  direction.  For  a  glazed  finish 
use  old  crocus  cloth,  which  is  greasy,  and  rub  it  on 
hard  and  long ;  this  will  give  a  brilliant  polish 
when  finally  cleaned  with  chalk  and  dry  rouge,  but 
it  will  also  bring  out  every  scratch  in"  the  job  by 
filling  it  up  with  dirt ;  so  that,  unless  the  amateur 
wishes  to  have  the  reproach  of  "  high  polish  and 
deep  scratches  "  applied  to  him,  he  should  avoid 
crocus  cloth  and  use  flour  emery  paper  for  the  last 
touches. 

OIL-STONE  FINISH. 

This  consists  in  bringing  the  work  to  a  true 
plane  by  filing  and  scraping,  and  then  going  care- 
fully over  it  in  detail  with  a  small  oil-stone  slip. 
This  finish  should  be  mottled  and  waved  in  ap- 
pearance at  the  will  or  taste  of  the  workman,  but 
it  is  slow  work  and  should  be  done  upon  small 
parts  only. 

ACID  FINISH. 
A  dead-bright  surface  can  be  criven  to  machine 

o  ^> 

parts  by  immersing  them  a  few  moments  in  strong 
nitric  acid,  and  then  immediately  plunging  the 
parts  into  strong  soda  water,  and  carefully  wash- 
ing them  in  clear  water  until  it  is  certain  that  the 
acid  has  been  removed.  The  effect  of  the  job  is 
much  enhanced  by  using  a  scratch  brush  on  them, 
run  at  high  speed  in  the  lathe.  This  finish  is  not 
recommended  for  parts  that  have  to  be  handled 
much,  for  it  will  turn  black  quickly  unless  pro- 


94  SMALL    ENGINES   AND    BOILERS. 

tected  from  the  air  by  shellac  —  varnish,  or  trans- 
parent collodion. 

SCRAPED  FINISH. 

This  consists  in  bringing  the  work  to  a  true  plane, 
and  then  mottling  the  surface  with  patches  scraped 
here  and  there,  but  alternating,  with  some  approach 
to  regularity.  It  is  chiefly  effective  upon  cast-iron 
surfaces  of  some  area.  A  finish  of  more  or  less 
ornamental  appearance,  called  worm-finish  can  be 
imparted  by  putting  a  pine  plug  in  the  chuck  and 
turning  it  true  on  the  end  and  .face.  Charge  the 
end  with  flour  emery  and  oil,  and  then  place  the 
work  against  the  back  spindle  and  screw  up  on  it, 
moving  the  work  in  straight  lines  or  curves  as 
desired.  This  gives  a  very  bright  finish  of  pecul- 
iar aspect,  and  is  frequently  used  upon  watch 
movements. 

SOLDERING  AND  BRAZING. 

A  knowledge  of  this  work  is  very  convenient 
to  machinists,  but  difficulty  is  experienced  some- 
times in  making  a  good  job.  This  is  because  the 
surfaces  to  be  joined  and  the  agent  used  in  doing 
the  work,  the  soldering-iron,  so-called,  are  not 
clean.  The  surfaces  of  the  work  must  be  abso- 
lutely bright,  without  a  trace  of  tarnish  upon  them, 
or  the  solder  will  not  take.  Sand-paper  will,  in 
a  majority  of  cases,  answer  to  clean  the  parts, 
but  it  is  sometimes  necessary  to  use  files  or  scrap- 
ers ;  but  it  must  be  borne  in  mind  that  the  solder 


SMALL   ENGINES   AND    BOILERS.  95 

will  not  adhere  unless  there  is  a  clean  surface 
present.  For  tin  the  solder  will  adhere  if  it  is 
clean,  with  rosin  only  as  a  flux ;  but  for  brass  it  is 
necessary  to  use  a  solution  called  muriate  of  zinc. 
This  is  merely  clean  zinc  dissolved  in  muriatic 
acid ;  put  zinc  cuttings  and  muriatic  acid  in  a 
bottle,  and  when  it  will  not  bubble  or  give  off 
fumes  any  more  the  acid  is  spent,  and  is  then  sat- 
urated. Pour  it  carefully  into  another  clean  bottle 
so  that  no  dregs  of  zinc  enter,  and  fill  it  up  with 
k  of  its  bulk  of  soft  water ;  wet  the  parts  with  this 
and  heat  them  on  a  hot  plate ;  then  rub  a  stick  of 
tin  over  them  until  they  are  coated  with  it,  and 
solder  in  the  usual  way  with  a  soldering-iron,  or 
bind  them  together  with  wire,  and  sweat  them 
together  as  it  is  called,  by  heating  on  a  hot  plate 
until  the  solder  flows.  This  solder  holds  very 
strongly,  and  pieces  of  irregular  shape  which  could 
not  be  otherwise  held  may  be  soldered  onto  the 
face-plate  and  machined  off.  Iron,  cast  or  wrought, 
can  be  tinned  by  filing  it  bright  or  putting  it  in 
acid,  if  small,  and  then  heating  it  on  a  plate  over 
the  fire  so  that  no  smoke  or  gas  reaches  it,  and 
then  covering  the  surface  with  sal-ammoniac  ;  rub 
tin  all  over  until  it  melts,  and  solder  in  the  usual 
way.  Common  solder  is  2  parts  tin  and  i  part 
lead  by  weight.  Fine  brass  jobs  which  cannot  be 
reached  by  an  iron  can  be  joined  by  dipping  the 
surfaces  in  a  strong  solution  of  sal-ammoniac,  put- 
ting a  strip  of  tin  foil  between  them,  and  binding 
them  with  wire ;  heat  just  enough  to  flow  the  tin. 


$6  SMALL   ENGINES   AND    BOILERS 

Silver  solder,  so-called,  is  34  parts  weight  of  sil- 
ver coin  and  5  copper.  Melt  in  a  clean  crucible, 
and  when  partly  cooled  add  4  parts  zinc,  stirring 
vigorously.  If  the  metal  is  too  hot  when  the  zinc 
is  put  in  it  will  all  burn  out.  Drop  or  pellet  sol- 
der is  made  by  taking  common  solder  and  pouring 
it  into  cold  water,  having  the  solder  only  hot 
enough  to  run  easily. 

BRAZING. 

This  process  differs  from  soldering  in  the  na- 
ture of  the  agent  employed  to  hold  the  parts  to  be 
joined.  Brazing  is  accomplished  by  melting  brass 
filings  applied  directly  on  the  seam  and  fused  in 
it  by  holding  the  work  over  a  fire.  It  requires 
considerable  practice  to  do  it  successfully,  and  is 
hardly  within  the  pale  of  amateur  work  ;  but  if  any 
one  desires  to  try  it,  let  them  scrape  the  seam  sur- 
faces bright,  and  apply  sal-ammoniac  and  brass 
filings  directly  to  the  seam  with  a  small  spoon 
made  of  a  copper  strip.  The  work  must  be  moved 
to  and  fro  over  a  charcoal  fire,  and  when  the  cop- 
per approaches  red-heat,  the  solder  or  brass  will 
flow  into  the  seam.  This  reads  very  simply,  but 
whoever  undertakes  it  for  the  first  time  will  find 
that  it  is  not  so  easy  as  it  reads. 


CHAPTER  XII. 

BOILERS. 

A  BOILER  which  will  merely  hold  hot  water  and 
stand  pressure  up  to  10  pounds  can  be  made  of 
tin  soldered  together  like  a  teakettle,  but  such  a 
boiler  is  not  worth  the  time  spent  upon  it.  "It 
is  merely  a  makeshift,  and  unworthy  of  any  one 
who  aspires  to  be  more  than  a  tinker.  A  boiler 
to  be  of  any  use  must  be  of  some  considerable 
dimensions  and  thickness  of  plate  ;  it  must  have 
a  good  fire-box  and  ample  heating  surface  for  the 
work  it  has  to  do,  and  it  must  be  properly  propor- 
tioned as  well  for  the  fuel  used. 

If  it  is  desired  merely  to  run  an  engine  to  see 
it  in  operation  under  low  pressure,  the  quickest 
made,  cheapest,  and  most  compact  form  of  boiler 
is  the  common  cylinder  boiler,  used  with  charcoal 
fuel,  or  arranged  for  a  gasoline  burner,  such  as  is 
now  sold  for  melting  lead  in  pots  by  plumbers. 
This  is  a  cheap  fuel,  but  it  is  not  a  particularly 
safe  one,  for  gasoline  is  treacherous  stuff,  and 
brooks  no  careless  hands  or  heads  about  it. 

A  copper  boiler,  4  inches  diameter  by  yV  thick 
and  12  inches  long,  will  drive  (that  is  run)  an  en- 
gine with  i  inch  diameter  of  cylinder  by  ij-inch 

97 


SMALL   ENGINES   AND    BOILERS. 


Fig.  28. 


SMALL    ENGINES    AND    BOILERS. 


99 


stroke  of  piston  all  day  long  at  1,000  revolu- 
tions per  minute,  and  maintain  a  pressure  of  50 
pounds  if  properly  arranged  as  to  the  heating  sur- 


Fig.  28.     BOILER  CAP. 

face ;  but  the  \vater  must  be  constantly  renewed, 
and  to  do  this  some  sort  of  a  feeding  apparatus 
must  be  employed ;  the  simplest  to  make  is  a 


100  SMALL    ENGINES   AND    BOILERS. 

common  plunger-pump  with  two  valves,  suction, 
and  delivery,  but  a  much  better  and  more  conve- 
nient form  of  boiler  for  amateurs  is  the  vertical 
tubular  boiler,  as  shown  in  the  diagrams. 

This,  as  will  be  seen,  is  easily  made  by  any  fairly 
good  workman,  and  has  no  rivets  to  bother  by 
leaking  in  inaccessible  places,  the  only  ones  being 
on  the  bottom  where  they  can  easily  be  put  in. 

The  dimensions  are  given  in  the  diagrams  ;  the 
total  heating  surface  in  the  tubes  is  7  square  feet, 
which  with  gasoline  fuel  should  give  very  nearly 
i-horse-power.  If  a  seamless  brass  tube  cannot 
be  easily  had  of  the  size  given,  a  coppersmith  will 
make  a  copper-tube  brazed  which  is  very  nearly 
as  strong,  or,  at  all  events,  strong  enough  for  a 
working  pressure  of  150  pounds. 

The  rule  to  find  the  bursting  pressure  of  any 
cylindrical  shell  or  tube  is,  to  multiply  the  thick- 
ness of  the  metal  in  parts  of  an  inch  by  i  of  the 
tensile  strength,  and  divide  by  half  the  diameter 
of  the  tube. 

For  example  :  the  tensile  strength  of  copper  is 
(brazed)  30,000  pounds  per  square  inch  ;  ith  of 
this  is  7,500  pounds.  The  copper  is  ith  thick 
(decimal  .125).  So  7,500  x  by  .125  =  937.5; 
dividing  this  by  half  the  diameter  of  the  tube, 
6  inches,  gives  us  156  pounds  working  pres- 
sure, which  is  just  \  of  the  bursting  pressure  or 
actual  strength  of  the  tube. 

The  heads  are  cast-brass,  or  may  be  of  copper 
flanged,  but  brass  is  easier  to  cut  a  thread  on  than 


SMALL    ENGINES    AND    BOILERS.  IOI 

copper,  and  must  be  screwed  in  tight.  It  will  be 
seen  that  this  is  a  pretty  good  job  for  an  amateur's 
lathe,  which  would  hardly  swing  it,  and  if  preferred 
the  tube  sheets  can  be  riveted  in  with  $  copper 
rivets  spaced  I  inch  between  centres. 

The  edges  of  the  tube  sheets  must  be  caulked 
tightly  after  riveting,  and  a  rivet-set  used  on  the 
outside  heads  to  make  a  neat  finish.  The  tubes 
are  I  inside,  because  they  are  to  be  expanded  in, 
and  that  is  the  smallest  expander  to  be  had  ;  they 
will  be  absolutely  tight  when  rolled,  and  need 
not  be  riveted  over  on  the  ends  ;  no  steam  press- 
ure can  draw  them  out.  The  dome  on  top  for 
the  smoke-stack  will  require  a  pattern  made  for  it 
if  it  is  intended  to  have  a  neat  appearance.  The 
gauge-cocks  can  be  bought  in  brass-goods  stores, 
they  are  called  "  ith  air-valves,"  and  are  very  small, 
neatly-finished  valves,  nickle-plated,  costing  15 
cents  apiece.  The  feed-pipe  enters  at  the  bottom, 
and  will  require  a  check-valve  close  to  the  shell. 
The  steam-pipe  emerges  where  marked,  and 
branches  can  be  taken  from  it  to  carry  the  steam- 
gauge,  safety-valve,  and  whistle  if  required. 

In  drilling  the  holes  for  the  tubes  in  the  tube- 
sheets  be  careful  to  get  exactly  the  same  number 
of  tubes  in  each  row  of  both  sheets  ;  if  this  is  not 
done  there  will  be  an  odd  hole  which  will  have  to 
be  closed  by  a  plug. 

Made  in  brass  or  copper  this  boiler  will  cost 
considerable,  and  it  can  be  made  of  steel  just  as 
well,  with  steel  tubes ;  but  these  last  are  apt  to 


102 


SMALL    ENGINES    AND    BOILERS. 


Fig.  30, 


SMALL   ENGINES   AND    BOILERS.  1 03 

corrode  very  quickly,  and  it  is  better  to  use  brass 
tubes.  Any  small  boiler-shop  will  make  a  1 2-inch 
steel  tube  by  16  inches  long,  by  No.  10  wire 
gauge,  for  a  very  moderate  sum,  and  the  heads 
can  be  flanged,  also,  in  steel.  With  this  material 
such  a  boiler  can  be  made  very  reasonably. 

At  150  pounds  pressure  and  with  gasoline  fuel, 

—  or,  if  preferred,  charcoal  or  coke  used  with  a 
blast,  such  as  the  engine  exhausting  into  the  stack, 

—  an   engine    1 1-inch    cylinder  by  3-inch   stroke, 
running  at   1,000  revolutions  per  minute  should 
deliver  i  horse-power,  ample  to  drive  all  the  tools 
in  an  amateur's  shop,  or  a  model  yacht  8  or  10 
feet  long,  by  18  inches  beam. 

A  horizontal  boiler  can  be  made  which  will  do 
good  work  by  following  the  diagram  Fig.  30. 
This  boiler  will  require  a  setting  which  may  be  of 
sheet-iron,  &  thick,  and  a  breeching,  as  it  is  called, 
to  go  over  the  internal  flue  where  it  emerges  from 
the  head.  This  is  a  cheap  boiler  to  make  also, 
as  it  can  be  wholly  brazed  together  without  a 
rivet  in  it,  and  it  will  carry  a  high  pressure ;  but 
it  will  not  do  the  work  that  the  vertical  boiler 
will,  because  it  has  very  little  heating  surface  for 
its  dimensions.  These  last  are,  we  will  say,  16 
inches  long  by  12  inches  diameter,  the  same  as 
the  vertical  boiler ;  but  the  effective  heating  sur- 
face is  the  bottom  and  the  internal  flue,  altogether 
only  408  square  inches,  or  a  little  less  than  3 
square  feet.  This  would  amount  to  nothing  at 
all  for  power  purposes,  and  would  only  be  useful 


104 


SMALL    ENGINES    AND    BOILERS. 


as  a  toy.  If,  however,  we  arrange  the  tubes  as  in 
the  upper  figure  we  can  get  9^  square  feet  heat- 
ing surface,  or  about  i  horse-power. 


A  horizontal  water-tube  boiler  is  another  affair, 
and,  in  the  same  space  as  the  horizontal  boiler 
just  described,  will  give  a  great  deal  of  power. 


SMALL    ENGINES    AND    BOILERS.  1 05 


86,  1  Lap  Welded  Tubes  13 'Long 


Fig.  3a- 


Cap 


IO6  SMALL    ENGINES   AND    BOILERS. 

There  is  another  advantage  in  it  —  that  gasoline 
or  oil  fuel  can  be  used  readily.  Either  of  these 
fuels  are  far  better  than  coal  for  small  boilers. 
The  trouble  with  it  is  that  it  does  not  burn  easily 
in  a  confined  space  like  a  small  fire-box ;  more- 
over it  is  very  dirty,  and  requires  constant  super- 
version.  With  oil  there  is  no  trouble  or 
annoyance  beyond  the  odor.  With  gasoline,  as 
before  explained,  great  care  must  be  taken  to 
have  not  the  slightest  leak  of  the  fluid  externally, 
or  there  will  be  a  very  dangerous  explosion.  The 
water-tube  boiler  is  not  at  all  difficult  to  make, 
and  affords  an  interesting  study  as  to  the  action. 
It  can  be  either  of  the  horizontal  inclined  type  or 
the  vertically  inclined  type,  as  desired  ;  an  ama- 
teur can  easily  make  the  horizontal  water-tube 
type.  As  will  be  seen  by  the  engraving  the 
generating  surfaces  comprise  a  series  of  tubes 
directly  over  the  fire  connected  with  the  steam- 
drum  on  top.  The  feed-pipe  enters  this  at  the 
bottom  and  the  steam-pipe  issues  from  the  top 
of  the  dome  or  drum.  This  last  is  made  of  a 
section  of  lap-welded  wrought-iron  pipe,  and  the 
heads  are  the  caps  which  go  on  the  same  and  can 
be  found  in  any  engineer's  store.  The  tubes  are 
lap-welded  also,  and  the  connections  at  the  end 
are  the  malleable  iron  return-bends  also  kept  in 
stock.  The  diagram  shows  how  the  series  (3) 
are  connected  to  each  other,  each  series  being 
also  connected  at  the  sides  by  running  one  of 
the  return-bends  at  right  angles,  or  turned  down 


SMALL    ENGINES    AND    BOILERS. 


107 


toward  the  bottom  of  the  boiler,  both  sides  and  ends 

(4  in  all)  of  the  series 

must    be     connected, 

for  the    steam  in  the 

lower    series    has    to 

pass  through  them  on 

the  way  to  the  drum. 

For  a  large  boiler  this 

would  not  be  a  good 

plan,  but  in   this   size 

it   will    answer.     This 

boiler  has    K   square 

feet  of  heatin- 


and  1 1  square  feet 
grate  surface,  and  will 
easily  deliver  ii  horse- 
power. It  will  burn 
any  kind  of  fuel,  wood, 
coal,  or  coke,  and  will 
stand  500  pounds  per 
square  inch.  This  is 
the  advantage  that 
water-tube  boilers 
have  over  fire  -  tube 
boilers  ;  they  can  carry 
higher  pressure,  and 
are  much  lighter  for 
equal  powers. 

It  must  be  borne 
in  mind,  if  this  boiler 
is  to  carry  high  pressures,  that  all  screwed  fit- 


IO8  SMALL    ENGINES    AND    BOILERS. 

tings  must  be  thoroughly  leaded  —  that  is,  cov- 
ered with  red-lead  putty  (made  of  white  lead 
and  red  lead  to  a  stiff  dough)  before  being  made 
up ;  and  that  no  pipe  or  union  must  be  screwed 
together  and  then  taken  apart;  if  this  is  done 
the  joints  will  leak,  for  they  are  stretched  much 
larger  than  the  original  size. 

The  boiler  thus  far  described  will  answer  for  all 
purposes  amateurs  are  likely  to  have,  and,  while 
some  of  the  parts  cannot  be  made  by  them  for 
want  of  facilities,  they  are  not  expensive  to  have 
made  by  workmen.  They  are  in  no  sense  of  the 
word  toys,  to  be  run  with  alcohol  lamps,  but  will 
burn  coal,  wood,  or  oil  fuel  when  properly  man- 
aged. Between  merely  driving  an  engine  and 
running  it  for  power  purposes,  there  is  a  great 
difference,  and  that  is  where  many  persons  fail 
to  get  power  out  of  small  engines.  They  have 
no  boilers  to  run  them.  Commercial  engines 
for  power  purposes  can  be  had  in  market  with 
cylinders  of  only  2  inches  diameter,  by  3  inches 
stroke,  but  they  require  150  pounds  of  steam. 

Vertical  submerged  tubular  boilers  are  in  use 
in  some  parts  of  the  country  as  shown  (Fig.  33), 
but  it  is  not  a  desirable  boiler  for  amateurs  to 
make,  on  account  of  the  difficulty  in  getting  the 
tubes  in  the  upper  head,  and  making  the  whole 
boiler  tight.  The  launch  engine  3"x  4"  will  re- 
quire a  boiler  of  30  square  feet  heating  surface, 
and  is  wholly  beyond  the  facilities  and  experience 
of  amateurs  to  construct. 


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BOILERS. 

Barr.  Practical  Treatise  on  High  Pressure  Steam  Boilers,  including 
Results  of  Recent  Experimental  Tests  of  Boiler  Material,  etc.  8vo.  Illus- 
trated. Indianapolis,  1893.  $3.00 

Barrus.  Boiler  Tests  :  Embracing  the  results  of  one  hundred  and  thirty- 
seven  evaporative  tests,  made  on  seventy-one  boilers,  conducted  by  the 
author.  8vo.  Boston,  1895.  $5-oo 

Christie.  Chimney  Design  and  Theory.  A  book  for  Engineers  and  Archi- 
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neys. 8vo,  cloth.  Illustrated.  New  York,  1899.  $3.00 

Courtney.  The  Boiler  Maker's  Assistant  in  Drawing,  Templating,  and 
Calculating  Boiler  Work  and  Tank  Work,  with  rules  for  the  Evapora- 
tive Power  and  the  Horse  Power  of  Steam  Boilers,  and  the  Proportions 
of  Safety  Valves,  and  Useful  Tables  of  Rivet  Joints  of  Circles,  Weights 
of  Metals,  etc.  Revised  and  edited  by  D.  K.  Clark,  C.E.  Illustrated. 
London,  1898.  (Weale's  Series.)  $0.80 

The  Boiler  Maker's  Ready  Reckoner.  With  examples  of  Practical 
Geometry  and  Templating,  for  the  Use  of  Platers'  Smiths,  and  Riveters. 
Revised  and  edited  by  D.  K.  Clark.  3d  edition.  London,  1890.  (Weale's 
Series.)  $1.60 

Davis.  A  Treatise  on  Steam-Boiler  Incrustation,  and  Methods  for  Pre- 
venting Corrosion  and  the  Formation  of  Scale  ;  also  a  Complete  List 
of  all  American  Patents  issued  by  the  Government  of  the  United  States 
from  1790  to  July  i,  1884,  for  Compounds  and  Mechanical  Devices  for 
Purifying  Water,  and  for  Preventing  the  Incrustation  of  Steam  Boilers. 
65  engravings.  8vo.  Philadelphia,  1884.  $2.00 

Foley,  Nelson.  The  Mechanical  Engineer's  Reference  Book  for  Ma- 
chine and  Boiler  Construction,  in  two  parts.  Part  I.,  General  En- 
gineering Data.  Part  II.,  Boiler  Construction.  With  51  Plates  and 
numerous  illustrations  specially  drawn  for  this  work.  Fol'o,  half  mor. 
London,  1895.  $25.00 

Horner.  Plating  and  Boiler  Making.  A  Practical  Handbook  for  Work- 
shop Operation,  including  an  Appendix  of  tables  by  A  Foreman  Pattern 
Maker.  338  illustrations.  I2mo.  London,  1895.  $3.00 


LIST  OF  BOOKS. 

Button.  Steam  Boiler  Construction:  A  Practical  Handbook  for  Engi- 
neers, Boiler  Makers,  and  Steam  Users.  With  upwards  of  300  illustra- 
tions. 3d  edition.  8vo.  London,  1898.  $6.00 

Munro.  Steam  Boilers :  Their  Defects,  Management,  and  Construction. 
2d  edition  enlarged,  with  numerous  illustrations  and  tables.  i2mo. 
London,  1892.  $1.50 

Roper.  The  Steam  Boiler:  Its  Care  and  Management.  With  instruc- 
tions for  increasing  the  Efficiency  and  Economy,  and  insuring  the  Dura- 
bility and  Longevity  of  all  classes  of  Steam  Boilers,  Stationary,  Loco- 
motive, Marine,  and  Portable.  With  Hints  and  Suggestions  and  Advice 
to  Engineers,  Firemen,  and  Owners  of  Steam  Boilers.  4th  edition, 
revised.  I2mo,  tuck,  mor.  Philadelphia,  1897.  $2.00 

Use  and  Abuse  of   the   Steam  Boiler.     Illustrated,     nth   edition. 

I2mo,  mor.  tucks.     Philadelphia,  1897.  $2.00 

Rose.  Steam  Boilers.  A  Practical  Treatise  on  Boiler  Construction  and 
Examination.  For  the  Use  of  Practical  Boiler  Makers,  Boiler  Users, 
and  Inspectors,  and  embracing  in  plain  figures  all  the  calculations  neces- 
sary in  designing  and  classifying  Steam  Boilers.  73  engravings.  8vo. 
Philadelphia,  1897.  $2-5o 

Rowan.  On  Boiler  Incrustation  and  Corrosion.  New  edition,  revised 
and  enlarged  by  F.  E.  Idell.  i6mo,  boards.  New  York,  1895.  $0.50 

Sexton.  Pocket  Book  for  Boiler  Makers  and  Steam  Users,  comprising  a 
variety  of  useful  information  for  Employer  and  Workman,  Government 
Inspectors,  Board  of  Trade  Surveyors,  Engineers  in  charge  of  Works 
and  Slips,  Foremen  of  Manufactories,  and  the  General  Steam-Using 
Public.  4th  edition,  revised  and  enlarged.  321110,  roan.  London,  1895. 

$2.00 

Stromeyer.  Marine  Boiler  Management  and  Construction.  Being  a 
Treatise  on  Boiler  Troubles  and  Repairs,  Corrosions,  Fuels,  and  Heat. 
On  the  Properties  of  Iron  and  Steel,  on  Boiler  Mechanics,  Workshop 
Practices,  and  Boiler  Designs.  8vo.  London,  1893.  $5.00 

Thurston.  Manual  of  Steam  Boilers  :  Their  Designs,  Construction,  and 
Operation.  For  Technical  Schools  and  Engineers.  183  engravings  in 
text.  6th  edition,  8vo.  New  York,  1898.  $5.00 

Steam   Boiler   Explosions.     In   Theory   and    Practice,     Illustrated. 

2d  edition,  I2mo.     New  York,  1888.  $1.50 

A  Handbook  of  Engine  and  Bailer  Trials,  and  of  the  Indicator  and 

Prony  Brake,  for  Engineers  and  Technical  Schools.     3d  edition.     Illus- 
trated, 8vo.     New  York,  1897.  $5.00 


D.    VAN  NOSTRAND   COMPANY. 

Traill.  Boilers:  Their  Construction  and  Strength.  A  Handbook  of 
Rules,  Formulae,  Tables,  etc.,  relative  to  Material,  Scantlings,  and  Pres- 
sures, Safety  Valves,  Springs,  Fittings  and  Mountings,  etc.  For  use  of 
Engineers,  Surveyors,  Draughtsmen,  Boiler  Makers,  and  Steam  Users. 
With  illustrations.  3d  edition,  I2mo,  mor.  London,  1896.  $5.00 

Triplex.  Marine  Boilers.  A  Treatise  on  the  Causes  and  Prevention  of 
their  Priming,  with  Remarks  on  their  General  Management.  Illustrated. 
I2mo.  Sunderland,  1899.  $2.00 

Watson.  Small  Engines  and  Boilers.  A  Manual  of  Concise  and 
Specific  Directions  for  the  Construction  of  Small  Steam  Engines  and 
Boilers  of  Modern  Types  from  five  horse-power  down  to  model  sizes. 
I2mo,  cloth.  Illustrated  with  numerous  diagrams  and  half-tone  cuts. 
New  York,  1899.  $1.25 

The  intention  of  the  author  in  writing  this  work  has  been  to  fur- 
nish specific  directions  and  correct  dimensioned  plans  for  small 
engines  and  boilers. 

Wilson.  A  Treatise  on  Steam  Boilers:  Their  Strength,  Construction, 
and  Economical  Working.  Enlarged  and  illustrated  from  the  Fifth  Eng- 
lish edition  by  J.  T.  Flather.  I2mo.  New  York,  1897.  £2.50 

Boiler  and  Factory  Chimneys:  Their  Draught  Power  and  Stability. 

3d  edition,  1 2mo.  London,  1892.  $1.50 

FUELS. 

Abbott.  Treatise  on  Fuel.  Founded  on  the  original  Treatise  of  Sir  W. 
Siemens.  Illustrated.  i6mo.  New  York,  1891.  $0.50 

Barr.  Practical  Treatise  on  the  Combustion  of  Coal,  including  descrip- 
tions of  various  mechanical  devices  for  the  Economic  Generation  of 
Heat  by  the  Combustion  of  Fuel,  whether  Solid,  Liquid,  or  Gaseous. 
8vo.  1879.  ^2'5° 

Clark  and  Williams.  Fuel :  Its  Combustion  and  Economy,  consisting  of 
Abridgments  of  Treatise  on  the  Combustion  of  Coal  and  the  Economy 
of  Fuel.  With  extensive  additions  in  recent  practice  in  the  Combustion 
and  Economy  of  Fuel,  Coal,  Coke,  Wood,  Peat,  Petroleum,  etc.  4th 
edition.  I2mo.  London,  1891.  $1-50 

Hodgetts.  Liquid  Fuel  for  Mechanical  and  Industrial  Purposes.  Illus- 
trated. 8vo.  London,  1890.  $2.50 

Phillips.  Fuels  :  Solid,  Liquid,  and  Gaseous  ;  their  Analysis  and  Valua- 
tion. For  the  use  of  Chemists  and  Engineers,  I2mo.  London,  1896. 

$0.80 


LIST  OF  BOOK'S. 

Sexton,  A.  H.  Fuels  and  Refractory  Materials.  8vo.  Cloth.  London, 
1897.  $2.00 

Williams.  Fuel  :  Its  Combustion  and  Economy.  Consisting  of  an 
Abridgment  of  "  A  Treatise  on  the  Combustion  of  Coal  and  the  Pre- 
vention of  Smoke."  With  extensive  additions  by  D.  Kinnear  Clark. 
4th  edition.  London,  1891.  $I«5O 

GAS    ENGINES. 

Clerk.  The  Theory  of  the  Gas  Engine.  2d  edition,  with  Additional 
Matter  edited  by  F.  E.  Idell.  i6mo.  New  York,  1891.  $0.50 

The  Gas  Engine.  History  and  Practical  Working.  With  100  illus- 
trations. 6th  edition.  I2mo.  New  York,  1896.  $4.00 

Donkin.  A  Text-Book  on  Gas,  Oil,  and  Air  Engines :  or  Internal  Com- 
bustion Motors  without  Boiler.  154  illustrations.  Svo.  London,  1896. 

$7-5° 

Goodeve.     On  Gas  Engines  :  with  Appendix  describing  a  Recent  Engine 

with  Tube  Igniter.     i2mo.     London,  1887.  $1.00 

Hiscox,  Gardner  D.      Gas,  Gasoline  and  Oil  Vapor  Engines.     A  New 

Book  Descriptive  of  Their  Theory  and  Power.    Second  edition,  revised 

and  enlarged.     Svo,  cloth.     Illustrated.     New  York,  1898.  $2.50 

HEAT.  —  THERMODYNAMICS. 

Anderson.  On  the  Conversion  of  Heat  into  Work.  A  Practical  Hand- 
book on  Heat  Engines.  3d  edition.  Illustrated.  I2mo.  London, 
1893.  $2.25 

Box.  Treatise  on  Heat  as  Applied  to  the  Useful  Arts,  for  the  use  of 
Engineers,  Architects,  etc.  8th  edition.  I2mo.  London,  1895.  $5.00 

Larden.     A  School  Course  on  Heat.    Illus.    i2mo.    London,  1894.     $2.00 

McCulloch.  Elementary  Treatise  on  the  Mechanical  Theory  of  Heat  and 
its  application  to  Air  and  Steam  Engine.  Svo.  New  York,  1876.  $3.50 

Maxwell.  Theory  of  Heat.  New  edition,  with  Corrections  and  Addi- 
tions by  Lord  Rayleigh,  Sec.  R.  S.  Illustrated.  I2mo.  New  York, 
1897.  $1.50 

Peabody.  Thermodynamics  of  the  Steam  Engine  and  other  Heat  En- 
gines. Svo.  New  York,  1898.  $5-oo 

Rontgen.  The  Principles  of  Thermodynamics.  With  special  Applica- 
tions to  Hot  Air,  Gas,  and  Steam  Engines.  With  additions  from  Profes- 
sors Verdet,  Zeuner,  and  Pernolet.  Translated,  newly  and  thoroughly 
revised  and  enlarged  by  Professor  A.  Jay  Du  Bois.  732  pages.  3d  edi- 
tion. Svo.  New  York,  1896.  $5-oo 


D.    VAN  NOSTRAND   COAfPAtfY. 

Tyndall.     Heat  considered   as  a   mode  of  Motion.     6th  edition.     I2mo. 

New  York,  1890.  $2.50 

Williams.  On  Heat  and  Steam  :  embracing  New  Views  of  E vaporization, 

Condensation,  and  Expansion.  Illus.  8vo.  Philadelphia,  1882.  $2.50 
Wood.  Thermodynamics,  Heat  Motors,  and  Refrigerating  Machines. 

Revised  and  enlarged  edition.     8vo.     New  York,  1895.  $4.00 

HOISTING   MACHINERY. 

Colyer.  Hydraulic,  Steam  and  Hand  Power-Lifting  and  Pressing  Ma- 
chinery. 72  large  plates.  Svo.  London,  1892.  $10.00 

Glynn.  Treatise  on  the  Construction  of  Cranes  and  other  Hoisting  Ma- 
chinery. 7th  edition.  Illustrated.  London,  1887.  $0.60 

Marks.  Notes  on  the  Construction  of  Cranes  and  Lifting  Machinery. 
I2mo.  London,  1892.  $1.00 

Towne.  A  Treatise  on  Cranes,  descriptive  particularly  of  those  designed 
and  built  by  the  Yale  and  Towne  Manufacturing  Company,  owning  and 
operating  the  Western  Crane  Company  ,  including  also  a  description  of 
light  hoisting  machinery  as  built  by  the  same  makers.  Svo.  New  York, 
1883.  £1.00 

Weisbach  and  Hermann.  The  Mechanics  of  Hoisting  Machinery,  in- 
cluding Accumulators,  Excavators,  and  Pile-drivers.  A  Text-book  for 
Technical  Schools  and  a  guide  for  Practical  Engineers.  Authorized  trans- 
lation from  the  second  German  edition  by  Karl  P.  Dahlstrom.  177  illus- 
trations. Svo.  New  York,  1893.  $3-75 

ICE-MAKING   MACHINES. 

Dixon.  Manual  of  Ice-Making  and  Refrigerating  Machines.  A  Treatise 
on  the  Theory  and  Practice  of  Cold-Production  by  Mechanical  Means. 
i6mo.  St  Louis,  1894.  $1.00 

Leask.  Refrigerating  Machinery.  Its  Principles  and  Management. 
"\Yith  numerous  illustrations.  Svo.  London,  1894.  $2.00 

Ledoux.  Ice-Making  Machines  :  the  Theory  of  the  Action  of  the  Various 
Forms  of  Cold-producing  or  so-called  Ice-Machines.  Translated  fr.om 
the  French.  248  pages  and  numerous  tables.  i6mo.  New  York,  1892. 

£0.50 

Redwood.  Theoretical  and  Practical  Ammonia  Refrigeration.  A  Prac- 
tical handbook  for  the  use  of  those  in  charge  of  refrigerating  plants. 
Illustrated  with  numerous  Tables.  I2mo.  New  York,  1896.  $1.00 

Wallis-Tayler.  Refrigerating  and  Ice-Making  Machinery.  i2mo,  cloth. 
Illustrated.  London,  1896.  $3.00 


LIST  OF  BOOKS. 


INDICATORS. 

Bacon.  Treatise  on  the  Richards  Steam  Engine  Indicator.  With  a 
Supplement,  describing  the  latest  Improvements  in  the  Instruments  for 
Taking,  Measuring,  and  Computing  Diagrams.  Also  an  Appendix,  con- 
taining Useful  Formulas  and  Rules  for  Engineers.  23  diagrams.  4th 
edition.  i6mo,  flex.  New  York,  1883.  $1.00 

Ellison.  Practical  Applications  of  the  Indicator.  With  reference  to  the 
Adjustment  of  Valve  Gear  on  all  Styles  of  Engines.  2d  edition.  8vo. 
100  engravings.  Chicago,  1897.  $2.00 

Hemenway.  Indicator  Practice  and  Steam  Engine  Economy.  With 
Plain  Directions  for  Attaching  the  Indicator,  Taking  Diagrams,  Comput- 
ing the  Horse-Power,  Drawing  the  Theoretical  Curve,  Calculating  Steam 
Consumption,  Determining  Economy,  Locating  Derangement  of  Valves, 
and  making  all  desired  deductions ;  also,  Tables  required  in  making  the 
necessary  computations,  and  an  Outline  of  Current  Practice  in  Testing 
Steam  Engines  and  Boilers.  6th  edition.  I2mo.  New  York,  1898. 

$2.00 

Le  Van.  The  Steam  Engine  Indicator  and  its  Use.  A  Guide  to  Practi- 
cal Working  Engineers  for  greater  economy,  and  the  better  Working  of 
Steam  Engines.  i8mo,  boards.  New  York,  1896.  $0.50 

The  Steam  Engine  and  the  Indicator  :  Their  Origin  and  Progressive 

Development,  including  the  most  recent  examples  of  Steam  and  Gas 
Motors,  together  with  the  Indicator,  its  Principles,  its  Utility,  and  its  Ap- 
plication. Illustrated  by  205  engravings,  chiefly  of  Indicator-cards.  8vo. 
Philadelphia,  1890.  $4.00 

Porter.  A  Treatise  on  the  Richards  Steam  Engine  Indicator,  and  the 
Development  and  Application  of  Force  in  the  Steam  Engine.  5th  edi- 
tion, revised  and  enlarged.  8vo.  London,  1894.  $3.00 

Pray.  Twenty  Years  with  the  Indicator.  Being  a  Practical  Text-book 
for  the  Engineer  or  the  Student,  with  no  Complex  Formulas.  With 
many  illustrations  and  rules  as  to  the  best  way  to  run  any  Steam  Engine 
to  get  the  most  economical  results.  How  to  Adjust  Valves  and  Valve 
Motions  Correctly.  Full  directions  for  working  out  Horse-Power,  the 
Amount  of  Steam  or  Water  per  Horse-Power,  Economy  and  Fuel.  Ex- 
tended directions  for  Attaching  the  Indicator,  what  Motions  to  use  and 
those  not  to  use.  Full  directions  for  Computation  of  Power  by  Planim- 
eter  and  other  methods,  with  many  tables  and  hints.  8vo.  New  York, 
1896.  $2.50 


D.    VAN-  NOSTRAND   COMPANY. 


INJECTORS. 

Kneass.  Practice  and  Theory  of  the  Injector.  8vo.  New  York,  1895. 

$1.50 
Nissenson.  Practical  Treatise  on  Injectors  as  Feeders  of  Steam  Boilers. 

Illustrated.  8vo,  paper.  New  York,  1890.  $0.50 

Pochet.  Steam  Injectors  :  Their  Theory  and  Use.  i6mo,  boards.  New 

York,  1890.  £0.50 

INSTRUCTIONS   TO   ENGINEERS,   FIREMEN, 
AND    BOILER  ATTENDANTS. 

Bale.  A  Hand-Book  for  Steam  Users,  being  Rules  for  Engine  Drivers 
and  Boiler  Attendants,  with  Notes  on  Steam  Engine  and  Boiler  Manage- 
ment and  Steam  Boiler  Explosions.  I2mo.  London,  1890.  $0.80 

Edwards.  900  Examination  Questions  and  Answers  for  Engineers  and 
Firemen  (Stationary  and  Marine),  who  desire  to  obtain  a  U.  S.  Govern- 
ment or  State  License.  A  new,  revised,  and  enlarged  edition.  32mo, 
mor.  Philadelphia,  1897.  $1.50 

Grimshaw.  Steam  Engine  Catechism.  A  Series  of  Direct  Practical 
Answers  to  Direct  Practical  Questions.  Mainly  intended  for  Young  En- 
gineers. i8mo.  New  York,  1897.  $2.00 

Grimshaw.  The  Engine  Runner's  Catechism.  Telling  how  to  Erect, 
Adjust,  and  Run  the  principal  Steam  Engines  in  use  in  the  United  States. 
Illustrated.  i8mo.  New  York,  1898.  $2.00 

Hawkins.  Maxims  and  Instructions  for  the  Boiler  Room.  Useful  to 
Engineers,  Firemen,  and  Mechanics,  relating  to  Steam  Generators,  Pumps, 
Appliances,  Steam  Heating,  Practical  Plumbing,  etc.  184  illustrations. 
8vo.  New  York,  1899.  $2.00 

—  Aids  to  Engineers'  Examinations.  Prepared  for  Applicants  of  all 
Grades  with  Questions  and  Answers.  A  Summary  of  the  Principles  and 
Practice  of  Steam  Engineering.  I2mo,  leather,  gilt  edge.  New  York, 
1894.  $2.00 

Reynolds.  The  Engineman's  Pocket  Companion  and  Practical  Educator 
for  Engineman,  Boiler  Attendants,  and  Mechanics.  Illustrated.  i6mo, 
London,  1886.  $1.40 

Roper.  Instructions  and  Suggestions  for  Engineers  and  Firemen  who 
wish  to  Procure  a  License,  Certificate,  or  Permit  to  take  charge  of  any 
class  of  Steam  Engines  or  Boilers,  Stationary,  Locomotive,  and  Marine. 
i8mo,  mor.  Philadelphia,  1894.  $2.00 


LIST   OF  BOOKS. 

Rose.  Key  to  Engines  and  Engine-running.  A  Practical  Treatise 
upon  the  Management  of  Steam  Engines  and  Boilers  for  the  use  of 
those  who  desire  to  pass  an  examination  to  take  charge  of  an  engine 
or  boiler.  I2mo,  cloth.  New  York,  1899.  $2.50 

Questions  and  Answers  for  Engineers.  This  little  book  contains  all 

the  questions  that  Engineers  will  be  asked  when  undergoing  an  exami- 
nation for  the  purpose  of  procuring  licenses,  and  they  are  so  plain  that 
any  Engineer  or  Fireman  of  ordinary  intelligence  may  commit  them  to 
memory  in  a  short  time.  5th  edition.  i8mo,  mor.  Philadelphia.  $2.00 

Stephenson.  Illustrated  Practical  Test  Examination  and  Ready  Refer- 
ence Book  for  Stationary,  Locomotive,  and  Marine  Engineers,  Firemen, 
Electricians,  and  Machinists,  to  procure  Steam  Engineer's  license.  i6mo, 
Chicago,  1892.  $1.00 

Stromberg.  Steam  User's  Guide  and  Instructor.  Plain  and  Correct  Ex- 
planations in  regard  to  Engines,  Pumps,  Dynamos,  and  Electricity.  Prac- 
tically, so  that  Engineers,  Machinists,  Firemen,  and  Electricians  of  Lim- 
ited Education  can  understand  and  become  expert  practical  engineers. 
i6mo.  St.  Louis,  1894.  $i-$° 

Watson.  How  to  Run  Engines  and  Boilers.  Practical  Instruction  for 
Young  Engineers  and  Steam  Users.  2d  edition.  Illustrated.  i6mo. 
New  York,  1896.  $i.ob 

Zwicker.  Practical  Instructor  in  questions  and  answers  for  Machinists, 
Firemen,  Electricians,  and  Steam  Engineers.  24mo.  St.  Louis,  Mo., 
1898.  $1.00 

LOCOMOTIVE   ENGINEERING. 

Grimshaw.  Locomotive  Catechism.  Containing  nearly  1,300  Questions 
and  Answers  Concerning  Designing  and  Constructing,  Repairing  and 
Running  Various  Kinds  of  Locomotive  Engines.  Intended  as  Exami- 
nation Questions  and  to  Post  and  Remind  the  Engine  Runner,  Fireman, 
or  Learner.  176  illustrations.  I2mo.  New  York,  1898.  $2.00 

Hill.  Progressive  Examinations  of  Locomotive  Engineers  and  Firemen. 
i6mo.  New  York,  1891.  $0.50 

Meyer.  Modern  Locomotive  Construction.  1,030  illustrations.  4to.  New 
York,  1894.  $10.00 

Phelan.  Air  Brake  Practice,  being  a  description  of  the  construction,  ob- 
jects sought,  and  results  obtained,  by  the  Westinghouse  automatic  air 
brake,  as  well  as  complete  directions  for  operating  it  under  the  many 
diverse  conditions  in  daily  practice.  3  large  folding  plates.  I2mo.  New 
York,  1890,  $1.00 


D.    VAN  NOSTRAND   COMPANY. 

Reagan.  Locomotive  Mechanism  and  Engineering.  i2mo,  with  145  il- 
lustrations. New  York,  1898.  $2.00 

Reynolds.  Locomotive  Engine  Driving.  A  Practical  Manual  for  Engi- 
neers in  charge  of  Locomotive  Engines.  8th  edition,  enlarged.  i2mo. 
London,  1892.  $1.40 

—  The  Model  Locomotive  Engineer,  Fireman,  and  Engine  Boy :  Com- 
prising a  Historical  Notice  of  the  Pioneer  Locomotive  Engines  and  their 
Inventors.     I2mo.     London,  1895.  $:.8o 

—  Continuous  Railway  Brakes.     A    Practical    Treatise  on  the  several 
Systems  in  use  in  the  United  Kingdom  ;  their  Construction  and  Perform- 
ance.    Numerous  illustrations  and  tables.     8vo.     London,  1882.     $3.60 

—  Engine  Driving  Life :  Stirring  Adventures  and  Incidents  in  the  Lives 
of  Locomotive  Engine    Drivers.     2'd    edition,  with  additional  chapters. 
I2mo.     London,  1894.  $0.80 

Rogers.     Pocket  Primer  or  Air  Brake  Instruction.    Stiff  paper  cover.  $0.50 

Roper.  Hand-Book  of  the  Locomotive;  including  the  construction  of 
engines  and  boilers  and  running  of  locomotives.  15th  edition,  revised. 
I2mo,  mor.  tucks.  Philadelphia,  1897.  $2.50 

Sinclair.  Locomotive-Engine  Running  and  Management.  A  Practical 
Treatise  on  Locomotive  Engines,  showing  their  performance  in  running 
different  kinds  of  trains  with  economy  and  Despatch.  Also,  directions 
regarding  the  care,  management,  and  repairs  of  Locomotives  and  all  their 
connections.  Illustrated  by  numerous  engravings.  2ist  edition,  revised. 
I2mo.  New  York,  1899.  $2.00 

Stretton.  The  Locomotive  Engine  and  its  Development.  A  Popular 
Treatise  on  the  Gradual  Improvements  made  in  Railway  Engines  be- 
tween the  years  1803  and  1892.  Illustrated.  I2mo.  3d  edition.  Lon- 
don, 1896.  $1.50 

Synnestvedt.  Diseases  of  the  Air  Brake  System.  Their  Causes,  Symp- 
toms, and  Cure.  Illustrated.  I2mo.  1894.  $1.00 

Woods.  Compound  Locomotives.  2d  edition,  revised  and  enlarged  by 
D.  L.  Barnes.  8vo.  Illustrated.  Chicago,  1894.  $3.00 


MACHINE   TOOLS   AND   APPLIANCES. 

Harrison.  The  Mechanic's  Tool  Book,  with  Practical  Rules  and  Sugges- 
tions for  Machinists,  Iron  Workers,  and  others.  I2mo.  New  York, 
1882.  $1.50 


LIST  OF  BOOKS. 

Hasluck.  The  Mechanics'  Work-shop  Handy  Book.  A  Practical  Man- 
ual on  Mechanical  Manipulation.  Embracing  Information  on  Various 
Handicraf.  Processes,  with  Useful  Notes  and  Miscellaneous  Memoranda. 
I2mo.  London,  1895.  $0.50 

Knight.  Mechanician.  A  Treatise  on  the  Construction  and  Manipulation 
of  Tools,  for  the  Use  and  Instruction  of  Young  Engineers  and  Scientific 
Amateurs.  4th  edition.  410.  London,  1888.  $7.25 

Lukin.  Young  Mechanic.  Containing  directions  for  the  use  of  all  kinds 
of  Tools  and  for  construction  of  Steam  Engines  and  Mechanical  Models, 
including  the  Art  of  Turning  in  Wood  and  Metal.  Illustrated.  I2mo. 
New  York.  $i-75 

Rose.  Complete  Practical  Machinist.  Embracing  Lathe  Work,  Vise 
Work,  Drills  and  Drilling,  Taps  and  Dies,  Hardening  and  Tempering, 
the  Making  and  Use  of  Tools,  Tool  Grinding,  Marking  out  Work,  etc. 
Illustrated  by  356  engravings,  igth  edition,  greatly  enlarged.  I2mo. 
Philadelphia,  1899.  $2.50 

Shelley.  Work-shop  Appliances.  Including  descriptions  of  some  of  the 
Gauging  and  Measuring  Instruments,  Hand  Cutting  Tools,  Lathes,  Drill- 
ing, Planing,  and  other  Machine  Tools  used  by  Engineers.  loth  edition, 
with  an  additional  chapter  on  Milling,  by  R.  R.  Lister.  Illustrated. 
I2mo.  London,  1897.  $1.50 

Smith.  Cutting  Tools  worked  by  Hand  and  Machine.  14  plates  and  51 
illustrations.  2d  edition.  I2mo.  London,  1884.  $1.50 

Usher.  Modern  Machinist.  A  Practical  Treatise  on  Modern  Machine 
Shop  Methods,  describing  in  a  comprehensive  manner  the  most  Approved 
Methods,  Processes,  and  Appliances  Employed  in  Present  Practice,  etc. 
257  illustrations.  I2mo.  New  York,  1895.  $2.50 

Watson.  Modern  Practice  of  American  Machinists  and  Engineers.  i2mo. 
Illustrated.  Philadelphia,  1892.  $2.50 

MECHANICAL   DRAWING   AND    MACHINE 
DESIGN. 

Andre.  Draughtsman's  Hand-Book  of  Plan  and  Map  Drawing;  including 
Instructions  for  the  preparation  of  Engineering,  Architectural  and  Me- 
chanical Drawings,  with  numerous  illustrations,  and  colored  examples. 
8vo.  London,  1891.  $3-75 

Appleton's  Cyclopaedia  of  Technical  Drawing.  Embracing  the  Principles 
of  construction  as  applied  to  Practical  Design.  With  numerous  illustra- 
tions of  Topographical,  Mechanical,  Engineering,  Architectural,  Perspec- 
tive, and  Free-hand  Drawing.  8vo,  leather.  New  York,  1887.  $9.00 


D.    VAN  NOSTRAND   COMPANY. 

Armengaud,  Amoroux,  and  Johnson.  Practical  Draughtsman's  Book  of 
Industrial  Design,  and  Machinists'  and  Engineers'  Drawing  Companion. 
Forming  a  Complete  Course  of  Mechanical,  Engineering,  and  Architectu- 
ral Drawing,  with  additional  matter  and  plates,  selections  from  and  ex- 
amples of  the  most  useful  and  generally  employed  mechanism  of  the 
day.  Illustrated  by  fifty  folio  steel  plates,  and  fifty  woodcuts.  New 
edition.  410,  half  mor.  Philadelphia,  1892.  $6.00 

Barber.  Engineers'  Sketch  Book  of  Mechanical  Movements,  Devices,  Ap- 
pliances, Contrivances,  Details  employed  in  the  Design  and  Construction 
of  Machinery  for  every  Purpose.  Collected  from  numerous  sources  and 
from  actual  work.  Classified  and  arranged  for  reference.  Nearly  2,000 
illustrations.  8vo.  London,  1897.  $4.00 

Building  and  Machine  Draughtsman.  A  practical  guide  to  the  projection 
and  delineation  of  subjects  met  with  in  the  practice  of  the  engineer, 
machinist,  and  building  constructor,  etc. ;  by  practical  draughtsmen. 
I2mo.  London,  1891.  $2.00 

Burns.  Illustrated  Architectural  Engineering  and  Mechanical  Drawing 
Book.  For  the  use  of  Schools,  Students,  and  Artisans.  loth  edition, 
revised  and  corrected,  with  additional  sections  on  important  departments 
of  the  art.  Svo.  284  illustrations.  New  York,  1893.  $1.00 

Davidson.  Drawing  for  Machinists  and  Engineers.  Comprising  a  com- 
plete course  of  Drawing  adapted  to  the  requirements  of  Millwrights  and 
Engineers ;  also,  course  of  practical  instruction  in  the  coloring  of  me- 
chanical drawings.  4th  edition.  i6mo.  London.  $1-75 

Donaldson.  Drawing  and  Rough  Sketching  for  Marine  Engineers,  with 
Proportions,  Instructions,  Explanations,  and  Examples ;  also  How  to  De- 
sign Engines,  Boilers,  Propellers,  Paddle  Wheels,  Shafts,  Rods,  Valves, 
etc.  6th  edition.  Illustrated.  London,  1899.  $3.00 

Faunce.  Mechanical  Drawing,  prepared  for  the  use  of  the  students  of 
the  Mass.  Institute  of  Technology.  2d  edition,  revised  and  enlarged. 
Illustrated  and  8  plates.  I2mo.  Boston,  1898.  $1.25 

Fox  and  Thomas.  A  Practical  Course  in  Mechanical  Drawing.  Being 
a  Course  of  Progressive  Lessons  illustrated  with  many  diagrams  and 
figures  especially  adapted  to  use  of  schools,  colleges,  etc.  I2mo,  cloth. 
Illustrated.  New  York,  1899.  $1.25 

Halliday.  First  Course  in  Mechanical  Drawing  (Tracing).  Folio,  paper. 
London,  1889.  $O-75 

—  Mechanical  Graphics.  A  second  course  in  Mechanical  Drawing,  with 
preface  by  Professor  Perry.  Svo.  London,  1889.  $2.00 

Hulme.  Mathematical  Drawing  Instruments  and  How  to  Use  Them. 
4th  edition.  i2mo?  New  York,  1890.  $i.o 


LIST  OF  BOOKS. 

Low  and  Bevis.     Manual  of  Machine  Drawing  and  Design.    3d  edition, 
753  illustrations.     8vo.     London,  1898.  $2.50 

MacCord.  Practical  Hints  for  Draughtsmen.  Illustrated  with  68  dia- 
grams and  full  page  plates.  3d  edition,  410.  New  York,  1890.  #2.50 

— Mechanical  Drawing.  Progressive  Exercises  and  Practical  Hints. 
For  the  use  of  all  who  wish  to  acquire  the  Art,  with  or  without  the  aid 
of  an  Instructor.  232  illustrations.  410.  New  York,  1895.  $4.00 

—  Kinematics,  or  Practical  Mechanics.  A  Treatise  on  the  Transmis- 
sion and  Modification  of  Motion  and  the  Construction  of  Mechanical 
Movements.  For  the  use  of  Draughtsmen,  Machinists,  and  Students  of 
Mechanical  Engineering,  in  which  the  laws  governing  the  motions  and 
various  parts  of  Mechanics,  as  affected  by  their  forms  and  modes  of  con- 
nection, are  deduced  by  simple  geometrical  reasoning,  and  their  applica- 
tion is  illustrated  by  accurately  constructed  diagrams  of  the  different 
mechanical  combinations  discussed.  4th  edition.  8vo.  New  York. 
1896.  $5-oo 

Mahan  and  Thompson.  Industrial  Drawing.  Comprising  the  Descrip- 
tion and  Uses  of  Drawing  Instruments,  the  Construction  of  Plane  Fig- 
ures, the  Projections  and  Sections  of  Geometrical  Solids,  Architectural 
Elements,  Mechanism,  and  Topographical  Drawing.  Revised  and  en- 
larged, and  chapter  on  Colored  Topography  added.  30  plates.  8vo. 
New  York,  1890.  $3. 50 

Minifie.  Mechanical  Drawing.  A  Text-Book  of  Geometrical  Drawing, 
for  the  use  of  Mechanics  and  Schools,  in  which  the  Definitions  and  Rules 
of  Geometry  are  familiarly  explained  :  the  Practical  Problems  are  ar- 
ranged from  the  most  simple  to  the  more  complex,  and  in  their  descrip- 
tion technicalities  are  avoided  as  much  as  possible.  With  illustrations 
for  Drawing  Plans,  Sections,  and  Elevations  of  Buildings  and  Machin- 
ery; an  Introduction  to  Isometrical  Drawing,  and  an  Essay  on  Linear 
Perspective  and  Shadows.  Illustrated  by  over  200  diagrams,  engraved 
on  steel.  With  an  Appendix  on  the  Theory  and  Application  of  Colors. 
8vo.  New  York,  1893.  $4-oo 

— —  Geometrical  Drawing.  Abridged  from  the  octavo  edition,  for  the 
use  of  Schools.  Illustrated  with  48  steel  plates,  gth  edition.  Revised 
and  enlarged.  I2mo.  New  York,  1890.  $2.00 

Palmer.  Mechanical  Drawing,  Projection  Drawing,  Geometric  and  Oblique 
Drawing,  Working  Drawings.  A  Condensed  Text  for  Class  Room  use. 
8vo.  Columbus,  O.  1894.  $i.QO 


D.    VAN  NOSTRAND   COMPANY. 

Ripper.  Machine  Drawing  and  Design  for  Technical  Schools  and  Engi- 
neer Students.  Being  a  complete  course  of  Instruction  in  Engineering 
Drawing,  with  Notes  and  Exercises  on  the  Application  of  Principles  to 
Engine  and  Machine  Design,  and  on  the  Preparation  of  Finished  Col- 
ored Drawings.  Illustrated  by  52  plates  and  numerous  explanatory 
drawings.  8vo.  London,  1897.  £6.00 

Roberts.  Drawing  and  Designing  for  Marine  Engineers.  2 1  large  fold- 
ing plates  and  many  other  illustrations  throughout  the  text.  Svo.  Lon- 
don, 1898.  $3.00 

Rose.  Mechanical  Drawing  Self-Taught.  Comprising  Instructions  in 
the  Selection  and  Preparation  of  Drawing  Instruments,  Elementary  In- 
struction in  Practical  Mechanical  Drawing,  together  with  Examples  in 
Simple  Geometry  and  Elementary  Mechanism,  including  Screw  Threads, 
Gear  Wheels,  Mechanical  Motions,  Engines  and  Boilers.  Illustrated  by 
330  engravings.  4th  edition,  revised.  Svo.  Philadelphia,  1898.  $4.00 

Shaw.  Mechanical  Integrators.  Including  the  various  Forms  of  Pla- 
nimeters.  iSmo,  boards.  Illustrated.  New  York,  1886.  $0.50 

Smith.  Graphics,  or  the  Art  of  Calculation  by  Drawing  Lines,  applied 
especially  to  Mechanical  Engineering.  Part  I.  Text,  with  Separate  Atlas 
of  Plates — Arithmetic,  Algebra,  Trigonometry,  Vector  and  Lecor  Addi- 
tion, Machine  Kinematics,  and  Statics  of  Flat  and  Solid  Structures.  Svo. 
London,  1888.  $5.00 

Stanley.  Descriptive  Treatise  on  Mathematical  Drawing  Instruments, 
their  Construction,  Uses,  Qualities,  Selection,  Preservation,  and  Sugges- 
tions for  Improvements,  with  Hints  upon  Drawing  and  Coloring.  5th 
edition.  I2mo.  London,  1878.  $2.00 

Tomkins.  Principles  of  Machine  Construction ;  being  an  application  of 
Geometrical  Drawing  for  the  Representation  of  Machinery.  Text  I2mo, 
Plates  4to.  New  York.  $3. 50 

Unwin.  Elements  of  Machine  Design.  Part  I.  General  Principles,  Fas- 
tenings, and  Transmissive  Machinery.  i6th  edition.  I2mo.  London, 
1898.  $2.00 

Part  II.  Chiefly  on  Engine  Details.  I2mo.  131*1  edition,  revised 

and  enlarged.  London,  1895.  $1.50 

Warren.  Elements  of  Machine  Construction  and  Drawing  :  or,  Machine 
Drawing,  with  some  elements  of  descriptive  and  rational  kinematics. 
Z  vols.  Text  and  plates.  8vo  New  York.  $7.50 


LIST  OF  BOOKS. 

MECHANICAL  ENGINEERS'    HAND-BOOKS. 

Adams.  Hand-Book  for  Mechanical  Engineers.  2d  edition.  Revised 
and  enlarged,  izmo.  London,  1897.  $2.50 

Appleton's  Cyclopaedia  of  Applied  Mechanics :  a  Dictionary  of  Mechani- 
cal Engineering  and  the  Mechanical  Arts.  Edited  by  Park  Benjamin. 
Nearly  7,000  illustrations.  Revised  and  improved  edition.  2  vols.  Svo, 
leather.  New  York,  1893.  $15.00 

Bale.  Steam  and  Machinery  Management :  A  Guide  to  the  Arrangement 
and  Economical  Management  of  Machinery,  with  Hints  on  Construction 
and  Selection.  Illustrated.  2d  edition.  I2mo.  London,  1890.  (Weale's 
Series.)  $1.00 

Benjamin.  Wrinkles  and  Recipes.  Compiled  from  the  Scientific  Ameri- 
can. A  collection  of  Practical  Suggestions,  Processes,  and  Directions, 
for  the  Mechanic,  Engineer,  Farmer,  and  Housekeeper.  With  a  Color 
Tempering  Scale  and  Numerous  Wood  Engravings.  4th  revised  edition. 
I2mo.  New  York,  1894.  $2.00 

Byrne.  Hand-Book  for  the  Artisan,  Mechanic,  and  Engineer.  Compris 
ing  the  Grinding  and  Sharpening  of  Cutting  Tools,  Abrasive  Processes, 
Lapidary  Work,  Gem  and  Glass  Engraving,  Varnishing  and  Lackering 
Apparatus,  Materials  and  Processes  for  Grinding  and  Polishing,  etc.  Svo. 
Illustrated.  Philadelphia,  1887.  $5.00 

Carpenter.  Text-Book  of  Experimental  Engineering.  For  Engineers  and 
for  Students  in  Engineering  Laboratories.  249  illustrations.  5th  revised 
edition.  Svo.  New  York,  1898.  $6.00 

Chordal.  Extracts  from  Chordal's  Letters.  Comprising  the  choicest 
selections  from  the  Series  of  Articles  wrhich  have  been  appearing  for  the 
past  two  years  in  the  columns  of  the  American  Machinist.  With  over  50 
illustrations.  I2mo.  New  York,  1898.  $2.00 

Clark.  Manual  of  Rules,  Tables,  and  Data  for  Mechanical  Engineers, 
based  on  the  most  recent  investigations.  With  numerous  Diagrams. 
6th  edition.  1,012  pages.  London,  1897.  $5-OO 

Mechanical  Engineers'  Pocket-Book  of  Tables,  P'ormulae,  Rules,  and 

Data.  A  Handy-Book  of  Reference  for  Daily  Use  in  Engineering  Prac- 
tice. i6mo,  mor.  London,  1893.  $3-oo 

Dixon.  The  Machinists'  and  Steam  Engineers'  Practical  Calculator. 
A  compilation  of  useful  Rules  and  Problems,  arithmetically  solved,  to- 
gether with  general  information  applicable  to  Shop  Tools,  Mill  Gearing, 
Pulleys  and  Shafts,  Steam  Boilers  and  Engines.  Embracing  valuable 
Tables  and  Instructions  in  Screw  Cutting,  Valve  and  Link  Motion.  2d 
edition.  i6mo,  mor.,  pocket  form.  New  York,  1892.  #1.25 


D.    VAN  NOSTRAND   COMPANY. 

Engineering  Estimates,  Costs,  and  Accounts.  A  Guide  to  Commercial 
Engineering.  With  numerous  Examples  of  Estimates  and  Costs  of  Mill- 
wright Work,  Miscellaneous  Productions,  Steam  Engines  and  Steam 
Boilers,  and  a  Section  on  the  Preparation  of  Costs  Accounts.  By  a  Gen- 
eral Manager.  8vo.  London,  1890.  $4.80 

General  Machinist,  Being  a  Practical  Introduction  to  the  Leading  Depart- 
ments of  Mechanism  and  Machinery,  the  Communication  of  Motion  or 
the  Transmission  of  Force  by  Belt,  Rope,  Wire  Rope,  and  Pulley  Gearing 
—  Toothed- Wheel  and  Frictional  Gearing ;  together  with  the  details  of 
the  component  and  essential  parts  of  mechanism  - —  Shafts,  Pedestals, 
Hanger,  Clutches,  etc.,  and  of  the  methods  of  fitting  up  Machines,  Screw 
Bolts,  Riveting,  etc.  By  various  practical  writers  and  machinists.  75 
illustrations  and  4  folding  plates.  8vo.  London,  1891.  $2.00 

Grimshaw.  Hints  to  Power  Users.  Plain,  Practical  Pointers,  free  from 
high  Science,  and  intended  for  the  man  who  pays  the  bills.  I2mo.  New 
York,  1891.  $1.00 

Hasluck.  Mechanic's  Workshop  Handy-Book.  A  Practical  Manual  on 
Mechanical  Manipulation.  Embracing  Information  on  Various  Handi- 
craft Processes,  with  Useful  Notes,  and  Miscellaneous  Memoranda. 
i2mo.  London,  1888.  $0.50 

Haswell.  Engineers'  and  Mechanics'  Pocket  Book,  Containing  Weights 
and  Measures,  Rules  of  Arithmetic,  Weights  and  Materials,  Latitude  and 
Longitude,  Cables  and  Anchors,  Specific  Gravities,  Squares,  Cubes,  and 
Roots,  etc. ;  Mensuration  of  Surfaces  and  Solids,  Trigonometry,  Me- 
chanics, Friction,  Aerostatics,  Hydraulics  and  Hydrodynamics,  Dynamics, 
Gravitation,  Animal  Strength,  Windmills,  Strength  of  Materials,  Limes, 
Mortars,  Cements,  etc. ;  WTheels,  Heat,  Water,  Gunnery,  Sewers,  Com- 
bustion, Steam  and  the  Steam  Engine,  Construction  of  Vessels,  Miscel- 
laneous Illustrations,  Dimensions  of  Steamers,  Mills,  etc.;  Orthography 
of  Technical  Words  and  Terms,  etc.  62d  edition.  Revised  and  enlarged. 
I2mo,  mor.  tuck.  New  York,  1899.  $4.00 

Hawkins.  Hand-Book  of  Calculations,  for  Engineers  and  Firemen ;  re- 
lating to  the  Steam  Engine,  the  Steam  Boiler,  Pumps,  Shafting,  etc. 
Illustrated.  8vo.  New  York,  1898.  $2.00 

Button.  Works  Manager's  Hand-Book  of  Modern  Rules,  Tables,  and 
Data  for  Civil  and  Mechanical  Engineers,  Millwrights,  and  Boiler  Makers, 
Tool  Makers,  Machinists,  and  Metal  Workers,  Iron  and  Brass  Founders, 
etc.  5th  edition,  revised,  with  additions.  8vo,  half-bound.  London, 
1895.  $6.00 


LIST  OF  BOOKS. 

Hutton.  Practical  Engineer's  Hand-Book.  Comprising  a  Treatise  on 
Modern  Engines  and  Boilers,  Marine,  Locomotive,  and  Stationary,  and 
containing  a  large  Collection  of  Rules  and  Practical  Data  Relating  to 
Recent  Practice  in  Designing  and  Constructing  all  kinds  of  Engines, 
Boilers,  and  other  Engineering  Work.  5th  edition,  carefully  revised,  with 
additions.  370  illustrations.  8vo.  London,  1896.  $7-oo 

Kent.  Mechanical  Engineers'  Pocket-Book.  A  Reference  Book  of  Rules, 
Tables,  Data,  and  Formulae,  for  the  Use  of  Engineers,  Mechanics,  and 
Students.  1,087  pages.  I2mo.  New  York,  1899.  $5.00 

Knight.  American  Mechanical  Dictionary.  A  Descriptive  Word  Book 
of  Tools,  Instruments,  Chemical  and  Mechanical  Processes;  Civil,  Me- 
chanical, Railroad,  Hydraulic,  and  Military  Engineering.  A  History  of 
Inventions.  General  Technological  Vocabulary,  and  Digest  of  Mechani- 
cal Appliances  in  Science  and  the  Industrial  and  Fine  Arts.  3  vols. 
Illustrated,  8vo.  Boston,  1884.  $24.00 

Supplement  to  the  above,  $9.00 

The  4  vols.,  complete,  $27.50 

Lock-wood's  Dictionary  of  Terms  used  in  the  Practice  of  Mechanical  En- 
gineering. Embracing  those  current  in  the  Drawing  Office,  Pattern  Shop, 
Foundry,  Fitting,  Turning,  Smiths'  and  Boiler  Shops,  etc.,  comprising 
upwards  of  6,000  definitions.  Edited  by  a  Foreman  Pattern  Maker. 
I2mo.  London,  1888.  $3.00 

Molesworth.  Pocket-Book  of  Useful  Formulae  and  Memoranda  for  Civil 
and  Mechanical  Engineers.  23d  edition,  revised  and  enlarged.  Pocket- 
book  form.  London,  1899.  $2.00 

Moore.  Universal  Assistant  and  Complete  Mechanic :  Containing  over 
One  Million  Industrial  Facts,  Calculations,  Receipts,  Processes,  Trade 
Secrets,  Rules,  Business  Forms,  Legal  Items,  etc.  Illustrated.  I2mo. 
New  York.  $2.50 

Nystrom's  Pocket-Book  of  Mechanics  and  Engineering.  Revised  and 
corrected  by  W.  D.  Marks.  2Oth  edition.  Greatly  enlarged.  I2mo, 
mor.  tucks.  Philadelphia,  1895.  $3. 50 

Rankine.  Useful  Rules  and  Tables  relating  to  Mensuration,  Engineering 
Structures,  and  Machines.  7th  edition,  thoroughly  revised  by  W.  J. 
Millar.  With  Electrical  Engineering  Tables,  Tests,  and  Formulae  for  the 
use  of  Engineers,  by  Prof.  A.  Jamieson.  I2mo.  London,  1889.  $4-o° 

Roper.  Engineers'  Handy-Book.  Containing  a  full  explanation  of  the 
Steam  Engine  Indicator,  and  the  Use  and  Advantage  to  Engineers  and 
Steam  Users.  With  Formulas  for  estimating  the  Power  of  all  Classes 


D.    VAN  NOSTRAKD   COMPANY. 

of  Steam  Engines ;  also  Facts,  Figures,  Questions,  and  Tables,  for  Engi- 
neers who  wish  to  qualify  themselves  for  the  United  States  Navy,  the 
Revenue  Service,  the  Mercantile  Marine,  or  to  take  charge  of  the  better 
class  of  stationary  Steam  Engines.  Illustrated.  I4th  edition.  i6mo, 
mor.  tucks.  Philadelphia,  1899.  $3-5O 

Scribner.  Engineers'  and  Mechanics'  Companion.  Comprising  United 
States  Weights  and  Measures,  Mensuration  of  Superfices  and  Solids; 
Tables  of  Squares  and  Cubes;  Square  and  Cube  Roots;  Circumference 
and  Areas  of  Circles ;  the  Mechanical  Powers ;  Centres  of  Gravity ;  Gravi- 
tation of  Bodies ;  Pendulums ;  Specific  Gravity  of  Bodies ;  Strength, 
Weight,  and  Crush  of  Materials  ;  Water-wheels,  Hydrostatics,  Hydraulics, 
Statics,  Centres  of  Percussion  and  Gyration  ;  Friction  Heat ;  Tables  of 
the  Weight  of  Metals,  Scantling,  etc. ;  Steam  and  Steam  Engine.  2Oth 
edition,  revised.  i6mo,  full  mor.  New  York,  1890.  $1.50 

Spons'  Tables  and  Memoranda  for  Engineers,  and  convenient  reference 
for  the  pocket.  loth  edition,  64mo,  roan,  gilt  edges.  London,  1889. 
In  cloth  case.  $0.50 

—  Mechanics'  Own  Book.  A  Manual  for  Handicraftsmen  and  Ama- 
teurs. Complete  in  one  large  vol.,  8vo,  containing  700  pp.  and  1,420 
illustrations.  2d  edition.  London,  1898.  $2.50 

Dictionary  of  Engineering.     Civil,  Mechanical,  Military,  and  Naval, 


with  Technical  Terms  in  French,  German,  Italian,  and  Spanish.  8  vols. 
8vo,  cl.  London,  1874.  Each,  $5.00 
Supplement  to  above.  3  vols.,  cl.  London,  1881.  Each,  $5.00 


Templeton.  Practical  Mechanics'  Workshop  Companion.  Completing 
a  great  variety  of  the  most  useful  Rules  and  Formulae  in  Mechanical 
Science,  with  numerous  Tables  of  Practical  Data  and  Calculated  Results 
for  Facilitating  Mechanical  Operations.  1 7th  edition,  revised,  modernized, 
and  considerably  enlarged,  by  Walter  S.  Hutton.  i6mo,  leather.  Lon- 
don, 1895.  $2.00 

Engineers',  Millwrights',  and  Mechanics'  Pocket  Companion. 

Comprising  Decimal  Arithmetic,  Tables  of  Square  and  Cube  Roots,  Prac- 
tical Geometry,  Mensuration,  Strength  of  Materials,  Mechanical  Powers, 
Water  Wheels,  Pumps  and  Pumping  Engines,  Steam  Engines,  Tables  of 
Specific  Gravity,  etc.  Revised,  corrected,  and  enlarged  from  the  8th  Eng- 
lish edition,  and  adapted  to  American  Practice,  with  the  addition  of  much 
new  matter.  Illustrated  by  J.  W.  Adams.  I2mo,  mor.  tucks.  New  York, 
1893.  $2.00 


LIST  OF  BOOKS. 

Van  Cleve.  English  and  American  Mechanic.  An  every-day  Hand-Book 
for  the  Workshop  and  the  Factory.  Containing  Several  Thousand  Re- 
ceipts, Rules,  and  Tables  indispensable  to  the  Mechanic,  the  Artisan,  and 
the  Manufacturer.  A  new,  revised,  enlarged,  and  improved  edition. 
Edited  by  Emory  Edwards,  M.E.  I2mo.  Philadelphia,  1893.  $2.00 

MECHANICS  (ELEMENTARY  AND  APPLIED). 

Church.     Notes  and  Examples  in  Mechanics  ;  with  an  Appendix  on  the 

Graphical  Statics  of  Mechanism.     128  illustrations  and  6  plates.     8vo. 

New  York,  1897.  $2.00 

Cotterill.     Applied  Mechanics,  an  Elementary  General  Introduction   to 

the  Theory  of  Structures  and  Machines.     Illustrated.     3d  edition.     8vo. 

London,  1895.  #5.00 

and  Slade.     Lessons  in  Applied  Mechanics.     i2mo.    London,  1894. 

Net  $1.2$ 

Dana.  A  Text-Book  of  Elementary  Mechanics  for  the  use  of  Colleges 
and  Schools.  loth  edition.  I2mo.  New  York,  1898.  $i-5° 

DuBois.  Elementary  Principles  of  Mechanics.  Designed  as  a  Text-Book 
for  technical  schools.  3  vols.  8vo.  New  York. 

Vol.  I.     Kinematics.  $3.50 

Vol.  II.     Statics.  $4-°o 

Vol.  III.     Kinetics.  $3-5° 

Garnett.  Treatise  on  Elementary  Dynamics.  For  the  use  of  Colleges 
and  Schools.  5th  edition.  8vo.  London,  1889.  Net  $1.50 

Geldard.     Statics  and  Dynamics.     Illus.    i2mo.    London,  1893.    #1.50 

Goodeve.  Principles  of  Mechanics.  New  edition,  rewritten  and  enlarged. 
I2mo.  London,  1889.  $2-5° 

Manual  of  Mechanics.     An  Elementary  Text-Book  for  Students  of 

Applied  Mechanics.     Illustrated.     I2mo.     London,  1881.  $0.80 

Hancock.  Text-Book  of  Mechanics  and  Hydrostatics.  With  over  500 
diagrams.  8vo.  New  York,  1894.  $J -75 

Hughes.  Condensed  Mechanics  :  a  selection  of  Formulas,  Rules,  Tables, 
and  Data  for  the  Use  of  Engineering  Students,  Science  Classes,  etc.,  in 
accordance  with  the  requirements  of  the  Science  and  Art  Department. 
I2mo.  London,  1891.  $1.00 

Jamieson.  Elementary  Manual  of  Applied  Mechanics.  Specially  ar- 
ranged for  the  use  of  First  Year  Science  and  Art,  City  and  Guilds  of 
London  Institute,  and  other  Elementary  Engineering  Students.  1 2mo. 
London,  1898.  $l-2$ 


£>.    VAN  NOSTRAND   COMPANY. 

Kennedy.     Mechanics  of  Machinery.    With  numerous  illustrations.  i2mo. 

London,  1886.  $3-S° 

—  Kinematics  of  Machinery;  or,  The  Elements  of  Mechanism.  i6mo, 
boards.     New  York,  1881.  £0.50 

Nystrom.  New  Treatise  on  Elements  of  Mechanics.  8vo.  Philadelphia, 
1875.  #2-°° 

Perry.  Applied  Mechanics.  Illustrated.  i2mo.  London,  1898. 

$2.50 

Practical  Mechanics.  Being  the  Fourth  Volume  of  "  Amateur  Work  Il- 
lustrated." Plates  and  illustrations.  4to.  London.  $3.00 

Rankine.  Applied  Mechanics,  comprising  Principles  of  Statics,  Cinemat- 
ics, and  Dynamics,  and  Theory  of  Structures,  Mechanism,  and  Machines. 
I2mo.  1 5th  edition,  thoroughly  revised,  by  W.  J.  Millard.  London,  1898. 

$5.00 

—  and  Bamber.     Mechanical  Text-Book  ;  or,  Introduction  to  the  Study 
of  Mechanics  and  Engineering.     With  numerous  diagrams.     4th  edition, 
revised.     8vo.     London,  1890.  $3. 50 

Stahl  and  Woods.  Elementary  Mechanism.  A  Text-Book  for  Students 
of  Mechanical  Engineering.  7th  edition,  revised  and  enlarged.  Illus- 
trated. I2mo.  New  York,  1896.  $2.00 

Weisbach.  Theoretical  Mechanics,  with  an  introduction  to  the  Calculus. 
Translated  from  the  fourth  German  edition  by  E.  B.  Coxe.  8th  edition, 
revised.  8vo.  New  York,  1889.  $10.00 

Vol.  II.,  Part  i.  Hydraulics  and  Hydraulic  Motors.  $5.00 

Vol.  II.,  Part  2.  Heat,  Steam,  and  Steam  Engines.  $5-OO 

Vol.  III.,  Part  i.  Kinematics  and  Machinery  of  Transmission.  $5.00 
Vol.  III.,  Part  2.  Machinery  of  Transmission  and  Governors.  $5.00 

Wood.  Elements  of  Analytical  Mechanics.  With  numerous  examples 
and  illustrations.  For  use  in  Scientific  Schools  and  Colleges.  7th  edi- 
tion, revised  and  enlarged,  comprising  Mechanics  of  Solids  and  Mechanics 
of  Fluids,  of  which  Mechanics  of  Thirds  is  entirely  new.  8vo.  New 
York,  1897.  $3.00 

—  Principles  of  Elementary  Mechanics.     Fully  illustrated,    gth  edition. 
I2mo.     New  York,  1894.  $1.25 

Wright.  Text-Book  of  Mechanics.  With  numerous  examples.  3d  edi- 
tion. I2mo.  New  York.  $2.50 


LIST  OF  BOOKS. 

MISCELLANEOUS. 

Amateur  Mechanic's  Workshop.  A  Treatise  containing  plain  and  concise 
directions  for  the  manipulation  of  Wood  and  Metals,  including  Casting, 
Forging,  Brazing,  Soldering,  and  Carpentry.  By  the  author  of  "  The 
Lathe  and  its  Uses."  7th  edition.  Illustrated.  8vo.  London,  1888. 

$3.00 

Saunders.  Compressed  Air  Production.  Rules,  tables,  and  illustrations 
relating  to  the  Theory  and  Practice  of  Air  Compression  and  Compressed 
Air  Machinery.  Illustrated.  8vo.  New  York,  1898.  $1.00 

Smith.  Workshop  Management :  a  Manual  for  Masters  and  Men,  com- 
prising a  few  Practical  Remarks  on  the  Economic  Conduct  of  Workshops. 
3d  edition.  I2mo.  London,  1883.  $0.80 

Plympton,  Prof.  Geo.  W.  How  to  become  an  Engineer ;  or,  the  Theo- 
retical afld  Practical  Training  necessary  in  fitting  for  the  Duties  of 
the  Civil  Engineer.  (Van  Nostrand's  Science  Series).  $0.50 

STEAM   AND    STEAM    ENGINES. 

Alexander.  Model  Engine  Construction.  With  Practical  Instructions  to 
Artificers  and  Amateurs.  Containing  numerous  illustrations  and  twenty- 
one  Working  Drawings,  from  Original  Drawings  by  the  Author.  I2mo. 
London,  1895.  $3-oo 

Baker.  Treatise  on  the  Mathematical  Theory  of  the  Steam  Engine. 
With  Rules  at  length  and  Examples  worked  out,  for  the  use  of  practical 
men,  with  numerous  diagrams.  8th  edition.  London,  1890.  $0.60 

Bale.  How  to  Manage  a  Steam  Engine  ;  a  Handbook  for  all  who  use 
Steam.  Illustrated,  with  examples  of  different  Types  of  Engines  and 
Boilers ;  with  Hints  on  their  Construction,  Working,  Fixing,  Economy 
of  Fuel.  etc.  7th  edition.  i2mo.  London,  1890.  $0.80 

Bourne.  Catechism  of  the  Steam  Engine  in  its  various  Applications  to 
Mines,  Mills,  etc.  New  edition,  enlarged.  Illustrated.  I2mo.  New 
York,  1897.  $2.00 

—  Hand-Book  of  the  Steam  Engine,  containing  all  the  Rules  required 
for  the  right  Construction  and  Management  of  Engines  of  every  Class, 
with  the  easy  Arithmetical  Solution  of  those  Rules.  Illustrated.  I2mo. 
New  York.  1892.  $i-75 

Burn.  Steam  Engine,  its  History  and  Mechanism.  3d  edition.  8vo. 
Illustrated.  London,  1857.  $1.00 


D.    VAN  NOSTRAND   COMPANY. 

Clark.  Steam  and  the  Steam  Engine,  Stationary  and  Portable.  (Being 
an  Extension  of  the  Elementary  Treatise  on  the  Steam  Engine,  of  Mr. 
John  Sevvell.)  4th  edition.  London,  1892.  $i .40 

—  The  Steam  Engine.  A  Treatise  on  Steam  Engines  and  Boilers ; 
comprising  the  Principles  and  Practice  of  the  Combustion  of  Fuel,  the 
Economical  Generation  of  Steam,  the  Construction  of  Steam  Boilers, 
and  the  principles,  construction,  and  performance  of  Steam  Engines, 
Stationary,  Portable,  Locomotive,  and  Marine,  exemplified  in  Engines 
and  Boilers  of  recent  date.  Illustrated  by  above  1 ,300  figures  in  the  text, 
and  a  series  of  folding  plates  drawn  to  scale.  2  vols.  8vo.  London, 
1895.  #15.00 

Colyer.  Treatise  on  Modern  Steam  Engines  and  Boilers,  including  Land, 
Locomotive,  and  Marine  Engines  and  Boilers.  For  the  use  of  Students. 
With  46  plates.  4to.  London,  1886.  $5.00 

Cotterill.  Steam  Engine  considered  as  a  Thermodynamic  Machine.  A 
Treatise  on  the  Thermodynamic  Efficiency  of  Steam  Engines.  Illus- 
trated by  tables,  diagrams,  and  examples  from  practice.  3d  edition,  re- 
vised and  enlarged.  8vo.  London.  1896.  net  $4.50 

Diesel.  Theory  and  Construction  of  a  Rational  Heat  Motor.  Translated 
from  the  German  by  Bryan  Donkin.  With  eleven  figures  in  the  text  and 
three  plates.  Svo.  London,  1894.  #2.50 

Edwards.  American  Steam  Engineer,  Theoretical  and  Practical.  With 
Examples  of  the  latest  and  most  approved  American  Practice  on  the  De- 
sign and  Construction  of  Steam  Engines  and  Boilers  of  every  description. 
For  the  use  of  Engineers,  Machinists,  Boiler  Makers,  etc.  Illustrated  by 
77  engravings.  I2mo.  Philadelphia,  1893.  $2.50 

Practical  Steam  Engineers'  Guide  in  the  Design,  Construction,  and 

Management  of  American  Stationary,  Portable,  and  Steam  Fire  Engines, 
Steam  Pumps,  Boilers,  Injectors,  Governors,  Indicators,  Pistons,  and 
Rings,  Safety  Valves  and  Steam  Gauges.  For  the  use  of  Engineers, 
Firemen,  and  Steam  Users.  Illustrated.  3d  edition,  revised  and  cor 
rected.  12  mo.  Philadelphia,  1898.  #2.50 

Evers.  Steam  and  other  Prime  Movers.  A  Text-Book  both  Theoretical 
and  Practical.  Illustrated.  I2mo.  London,  1890.  $1.50 

Steam  and  the  Steam  Engine  ;  Land,  Marine,  and  Locomotive      II 

lustrated.     I2mo.     New  York.  $1.00 

Ewing.  Steam  Engine  and  other  Heating  Engines.  Illustrated.  8  vex 
Cambridge,  1897.  #3-75 


LIST  OF  BOOKS. 

Goodeve.  Text-Book  on  the  Steam  Engine.  With  a  Supplement  on  Gas 
Engines  and  on  Heat  Engines.  I2th  edition,  enlarged.  I2mo.  143 
illustrations.  London,  1893.  $2.00 

Gould.     Arithmetic  of  the  Steam  Engine.     i2mo.     N.  Y.     1898.    $1.00 

Grimshaw.  Steam  Engine  Catechism.  A  series  of  direct  practical  an 
swers  to  direct  practical  questions,  mainly  intended  for  young  engineers 
and  for  examination  questions.  loth  edition,  enlarged  and  improved. 
i8mo.  New  York,  1897.  $2.00 

Haeder.  Hand-Book  on  the  Steam  Engine  with  especial  Reference  to 
Small  and  Medium  sized  Engines.  For  the  Use  of  Engine  Makers,  Me- 
chanical Draughtsmen,  Engineering  Students,  and  Users  of  Steam 
Power.  1,100  illustrations.  i2mo.  London,  1896.  $3-oo 

Henthorn.  Corliss  Engine  and  its  Management.  Edited  by  E.  P.  Watson. 
3d  edition,  enlarged  with  an  appendix,  by  Emil  Herter.  Illustrated. 
i8mo.  New  York,  1897.  $1.00 

Holmes.     Steam  Engine.      212  illustrations.  loth  edition.    I2mo.    London, 

1898.  $2.00 

This  is  a  complete  practical  and  theoretical  treatise  on  the  steam-engine,  written  in 
very  clear  and  beautiful  style,  rendering  the  more  abstruse  principles  of  the  subject  as 
plain  and  simple  as  it  is  probably  possible  to  make  them.  It  is  one  of  the  best,  if  not  the 
best,  combinations  of  theoretical  investigation  and  practical  applications  in  the  whole  lite- 
rature of  the  subject,  and  forms  an  admirable  companion  to  Ripper's  smaller  and  more 
exclusively  practical  treatise. 

Jamieson.  Text-Book  of  Steam  and  Steam  Engines.  loth  edition,  with 
numerous  diagrams,  four  folding  plates  and  examination  questions.  I2tno. 
London,  1897.  $3.00 

—  Elementary  Manual  on  Steam  and  the  Steam  Engine.  With  nu- 
merous diagrams,  arithmetical  examples,  and  examination  questions. 
I2mo.  London,  1898.  $1.40 

Lardner.  Treatise  on  ths  Steam  Engine,  for  the  use  of  Beginners.  i6th 
edition.  Illustrated.  London,  1893.  $0.60 

Le  Van.  Steam  Engine  and  the  Indicator  ;  their  Origin  and  Progressive 
Development,  including  the  most  recent  examples  of  Steam  and  Gas 
Motors,  together  with  the  Indicator,  its  Principles,  its  Utility,  and  its  Ap- 
plication. Illustrated  by  205  Engravings,  chiefly  of  Indicator  Cards.  8vo. 
Philadelphia,  1892.  $4.00 

Mallet.     Compound  Engines.      i6mo,  boards.     New  York,  1884.        $0.50 

Marks.  Relative  Proportions  of  the  Steam  Engine.  i2mo.  Illustrated. 
3d  edition.  Philadelphia,  1896.  $3.00 

Peabody.  Table  of  the  Properties  of  Saturated  Steam  and  other  Vapors. 
8vo.  New  York,  1888.  #1.00 


D.    VAN  NOSTKAND   COMPANY, 

Pray.  Steam  Tables  and  Engine  Constants.  For  facilitating  all  calcu- 
lations upon  Indicator  Diagrams  or  Various  Problems  connected  with 
the  operation  of  the  Steam  Engine,  from  reliable  data  and  with  precision 
compiled  from  Regnault,  Rankine,  and  Dixon  directly,  making  use  of  the 
exact  records.  8vo.  New  York,  1894.  $2.00 

Rankine.  Manual  of  the  Steam  Engine  and  other  Prime  Movers,  with 
numerous  tables  and  illustrations.  I2mo.  ijth  edition.  London,  1897. 

$5.00 

Rigg.  Practical  Treatise  on  the  Steam  Engine,  containing  Plans  and 
Arrangements  of  Details  for  Fixed  Steam  Engines,  with  Essays  on  the 
Principles  involved  in  Design  and  Construction.  Copiously  illustrated 
with  woodcuts  and  96  plates.  4to.  2d  edition.  New  York,  1894. 

$10.00 

Ripper.     Steam.      Illustrated.     I2mo.     London,  1889.  $1.00 

This  work  is  based  upon  a  course  of  lectures  given  to  an  evening  class  of  young  me- 
chanical engineers  on  steam,  steam-engines,  and  boilers.  It  is  remarkably  clear,  concise, 
and  practical ;  no  superfluous  matter  is  introduced,  and  every  page  goes  directly  to  the 
point.  It  is  the  best  book  for  beginners,  and  also  for  those  who  wish  to  have  a  manual 
embracing  the  practical  features  of  the  subjects  in  small  compass. 

Roper.  Hand-Book  of  Modern  Steam  Fire  Engines ;  including  the  run- 
ning, care,  and  management  of  Steam  Fire  Engines  and  Fire  Pumps. 
2d  edition,  revised  and  corrected  by  H.  L.  Stellwagen.  Illustrated. 
I2mo,  mor.  tucks.  Philadelphia,  1897.  $3-5° 

Hand-Book  of  Land  and  Marine  Engines,  including  the  Modelling, 

Construction,  Running,  and  Management  of  Land  and  Marine  Engines 
and  Boilers,  gth  edition,  revised,  enlarged,  and  improved.  i2mo,  mor. 
tucks.  Philadelphia,  1897.  $3-5° 

Catechism  of  High  Pressure  or  Non-Condensing  Steam  Engines, 


including  the  Modelling,  Constructing,  Running,  and  Management  of 
Steam  Engines  and  Steam  Boilers.  2Oth  edition,  revised  and  enlarged. 
Illustrated.  i2mo,  mor.  tucks.  Philadelphia,  1897.  $2.00 
Young  Engineer's  Own  Book.  Containing  nn  Explanation  of  the 


Principle  and  Theories  on  which  the  Steam  Engine  as  a  Prime  Mover  is 
based,  with  a  description  of  different  kinds  of  Steam  Engines,  Condens- 
ing and  Non  Condensing,  Marine,  Stationary,  Locomotive,  Fire,  Trac 
tion,  and  Portable.  106  illustrations.  3d  edition,  revised.  16  mo,  mor. 
tucks.  Philadelphia,  1897.  $3.00 

Rose.  Modern  Steam  Engines.  An  Elementary  Treatise  upon  the 
Steam  Engine,  written  in  Plain  Language ;  for  use  in  the  Workshop  as 
well  as  in  the  Drawing  Office.  Giving  Full  Explanations  of  the  Con- 


LIST  OF  BOOKS. 

struction  of  Modern  Steam  Engines;  including  Diagrams  showing  their 
Actual  Operation  ;  together  with  Comr^te  but  Simple  Explanation  of 
the  Operations  of  various  kinds  of  "^Wes,  Valve  Motions,  and  Link 
Motions,  etc.,  thereby  enabling  the  o^Rary  engineer  to  clearly  under- 
stand the  Principles  involved  in  their  (Bistruction  and  use,  and  to  Plot 
out  their  movements  upon  the  Draw*  Board.  New  edition,  revised 
and  improved.  453  illustrations.  4td^ Philadelphia,  1897.  $6.00 

Key  to  Engines  and  Engine  Running.     A  Practical  Treatise  upon 


the  Management  of  Steam  Engines  and  Boilers,  for  the  use  of  those 
who  desire  to  pass  an  Examination  to  take  Charge  of  an  Engine  or 
Boiler.  With  numerous  Illustrations  and  Instructions  upon  Engineers' 
Calculations,  Indicator  Diagrams,  Engine  Adjustments,  and  other  Valu- 
able Information  necessary  for  Engineers  and  Firemen.  I2mo.  N.Y. 
1899.  $2.50 

Thurston.     History  of  the  Growth  of  the  Steam  Engine.     4th  revised 

edition.     Illustrated.     I2mo.     New  York,  1897.  $2.50 

—  Manual    of   the   Steam   Engine.       For   Engineers   and   Technical 

Schools.      Part  I.     Structure   and    Theory.      Illustrated.      8vo.      New 

York,  1897.  ^;>  $6.00 

Part  II.     Design,  Construction,  and  Operation.     Illustrate^    8vo.     New 
York,  1897.  #6. 

Or  in  sets.  $10. 

Hand-Book  of  Engine  and  Boiler  Trials,  and  of  the  Indicator  and 

Prony  Brake,  for  Engineers  and  Technical  Schools.  Illustrated.  8v^| 
New  York,  1897.  $5.00 

Stationary  Steam  Engines,   Simple  and  Compound,  especially  as 


adapted  to  Electric  Lighting  Purposes.     5th  edition,  revised,  with  addi- 
tions.    Illustrated.     I2mo.     New  York,  1893.  $2.50 

Turnbull.     Treatise  on  the  Compound  Engine.      2d  edition,  revised  and 

-    enlarged  by  Prof.  S.  W.  Robinson.     i6mo,  boards.     New  York,  1884. 

$0.50 

Watson.  Small  Engines  and  Boilers.  A  Manual  of  Concise  and 
Specific  Directions  for  the  Construction  of  Small  Steam  Engines  and 
Boilers  of  Modern  Types  from  five  horse-power  down  to  model  sizes. 
I2mo,  cloth.  Illustrated  with  numerous  diagrams  and  half  tone  cuts. 
New  York,  1899.  $1.25 

Weisbach.  Heat,  Steam,  and  Steam  Engine.  Translated  from  the  4th 
edition  of  Vol.  II.  of  Weisbach's  Mechanics.  Containing  notes  giving 
practical  examples  of  Stationary,  Marine,  and  Locomotive  Engines, 
showing  American  practice,  by  R.  H.  Buel.  Numerous  illustrations. 
8yo.  New  York,  1891.  $5.00 


D.    VAX  NOSTRAND    COMPANY. 

Whitham.  Steam  Engine  Design.  For  the  use  of  Mechanical  Engi- 
neers, Students,  and*  Draughtsmen.  3d  edition,  revised.  With  210 
illustrations.  8vo.  New  York,  1898.  $5.00 

—  Descriptive  Treatise  on  Constructive  Steam  Engineering,  embra- 
cing Engines,  Pumps,  and  Boilers,  and  their  accessories  and  appendages. 
Illustrations  and  many  folding  plates.  Svo.  New  York,  1897.  $6.00 

Yeo,  John.  Steam  and  the  Marine  Steam  Engine.  Svo.  London,  1894. 

$2.50 

This  book  is  intended  more  particularly  for  engineers  of  the  Royal  Navy,  but  will  be 
exceedingly  useful  to  those  of  ths  mercantile  mari  ic  as  well.  It  is  almost  entirely  de- 
scriptive, and  is  noteworthy  for  what  it  omits  as  well  as  for  what  it  contains.  Although 
treating  exclusively  of  the  marine  engine  and  boiler,  there  is  so  much  i;i  it  that  is  general 
to  all  branches  of  steam  engineering,  and  the  whole  is  so  well  and  clearly  expressed,  and 
shows  such  a  profound  knowledge  of  the  subject,  that  it  cannot  foil  to  be  of  the  highest 
value  to  the  general  student. 

TRANSMISSION    OF    POWER,   BELTING,   ETC. 

Compressed  Air.  Experiments  upon  the  Transmission  of  Power  by 
Compressed  Air,  in  Paris  (Popp's  System),  and  the  Transmission  and 
Distribution  of  Power  from  Central  Stations  by  Compressed  Air.  Illus- 
trated. i6mo.  New  York,  1892.  $0.50 

Toothed  Gearing.  A  Practical  Hand-Book  for  Offices  and  Workshops. 
By  a  Foreman  Pattern  Maker.  184  illustrations.  I2mo.  London, 
1892.  $2.50 

Unwin.  On  the  Development  and  Transmission  of  Power  from  Central 
Stations.  Being  the  Howard  lectures  delivered  at  the  Society  of  Arts 
in  1893.  Illustrated.  Svo.  New  York,  1894.  $3. 50 

VALVES  AND  VALVE  GEARS. 

Auchincloss.  Practical  Application  of  the  Slide- Valve  and  Link-Motion 
to  Stationary,  Portable,  Locomotive,  and  Marine  Engines,  with  new  and 
simple  methods  for  proportioning  the  parts.  Illustrated,  ijth  edition, 
revised  and  enlarged.  Svo.  New  York,  1897.  $2.0x3 

Bankson.  Slide  Valve  Diagrams.  A  French  Method  of  Obtaining 
Slide  Yalve  Diagrams.  8  Plates.  i6mo.  New  York,  1892.  $0.50 

Buel.     Safety  Valves.      i6mo,  boards.     New  York,  1876.  $0.50 

Halsey.  Slide  Valve  Gears  ;  an  explanation  of  the  action  and  construc- 
tion of  plain  and  cut-off  slide  valves.  Analysis  by  the  Bilgram  Diagram. 
79  illustrations.  3d  edition,  I2mo.  New  York,  1894.  51.50 


LIST  OF  BOOKS. 

Le  Van.  Safety  Valves  ;  Their  History,  Antecedents,  Invention,  and 
Calculation.  69  Illustrations.  I2mo.  New  York,  1892.  $2.00 

MacCord.  Treatise  on  the  Movement  of  the  Eccentric  upon  the  Slide 
Valve,  and  explaining  the  Practical  Process  of  Laying  out  the  Move- 
ments, adapting  the  Valve  for  its  various  duties  in  the  Steam  Engine, 
for  the  Use  of  Engineers,  Draughtsmen,  Machinists,  and  Students  of 
Valve  Motion  in  general.  2d  edition.  4to.  Illustrated.  New  York, 
1883.  $2.50 

Peabody.  » Valve  Gears  and  Steam  Engines.  33  Plates.  8vo.  New 
York,  1898.  $2.50 

Rose.  Slide  Valve  Practically  Explained.  Embracing  Simple  and 
Complete  Practical  Demonstrations  of  the  Operations  of  each  Element 
in  a  Slide- Valve  Movement,  and  illustrating  the  effects  of  variations  in 
their  proportions,  by  examples  carefully  selected  from  the  most  recent 
and  successful  practice.  Illustrated.  I2mo.  Philadelphia,  1895.  $1.00 

Spangler.  Valve  Gears.  2d  edition,  revised  and  enlarged.  8vo.  New- 
York,  1898.  $2.50 

Welch.  Treatise  on  a  Practical  Method  of  Designing  Slide  Valve  Gear- 
ing by  Simple  Geometrical  Construction,  based  upon  the  principles  enun- 
ciated in  Euclid's  Elements,  and  comprising  the  various  forms  of  Plain 
Slide  Valve  and  Expansion  Gearing;  together  with  Stephenson's,  Gooch's, 
and  Allen's  Link  Motions,  as  applied  either  to  reversing  or  to  variable 
expansion  combinations.  I2mo.  London,  1875.  $l-5° 

Zeuner.  Treatise  on  Valve  Gears,  with  Special  consideration  of  the  link 
motions  of  locomotive  engines.  4th  edition.  Translated  by  Prof.  J.  F. 
Klein.  8vo.  London,  1884.  $5-°° 


E.<5F.N.SPON,L» 

125,    STRAND. 
LONDON. 


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